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Nov 18
Reviews (Eats)
Hanegah: Little Fish, Big City


Hanegah's muhlama and hamsi, photo by Ansel Mullins

Around the time that hamsi, our favorite little fish, appear in the markets of Istanbul in late fall we become restless for the Black Sea-style cooking we’ve been missing since the previous season. Hamsi (fresh anchovies) are not the only thing to eat in a Black Sea restaurant, but eating in one that doesn’t have hamsi sometimes feels like sitting down for a meal in a BBQ joint that only serves coleslaw.

So as the hamsi start swimming our way, we make up for lost time, revisiting last year’s favorite restaurants and hunting down new discoveries. A recent quest to expand our network of hamsi spots led us to the most pleasant kind of Istanbul dining experience, in which a restaurant in a stunning setting (of which Istanbul has many) is, despite its prime location, run in an utterly down-home way, serving food that is as close to home as you can get. That is the real-estate contradiction that we found at Hanegah on the At Pazarı in Fatih.

Read the rest of this review on Culinary Backstreets. (Editor’s Note: It appears that, due to complaints about fish fry odors, this spot is no longer serving hamsi.)

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2 Responses to “ Hanegah: Little Fish, Big City ”
  1. Just a warning for anyone who tries to come here. Don’t waste your time! They won’t serve you hamsi–we’ve tried.

  2. Thanks for the note. It appears the neighbors finally had enough of fish fry odors. Shame.

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