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Posts Tagged ‘ meze ’

Dec 11
Friday

Mari: The Cosmopolitan

Filed under Reviews (Eats)

Mekan, photo by Monique Jaques
In the great multicultural Anatolian kitchen, questions about the ethnic or national origins of foods are often cause for forks and knives to fly. A porridge called keşkek is a hot-button diplomatic issue between Turkey and Armenia, and we won’t even get started on the ongoing baklava debate. So what to make of this cuisine that draws influences from every corner of the former Ottoman lands, a territory stretching from the Balkans to North Africa? The answer might be in a simple term that’s becoming popular among Turkey’s minorities. The word Türkiyeli means “of Turkey” and differs significantly (and quite intentionally) from the word Türk, which often adds ethno-religious shades to nationality.

We find Türkiyeli to be an apt description of most things in this country, and certainly of the restaurant Mari, whose heritage is anything but simple: owned by Armenian and Jewish business partners, the venue is frequented by a diverse clientele that includes many Istanbul Armenians. Nevertheless, Mari wears its identity loosely and is not trying to be anything but a good restaurant with a kitchen turning out well-made, traditional favorites. Hold the culinary nationalism, and dig in.

Read the rest of the update review on Culinary Backstreets.


All entries filed under this archive


From Blog to Table in Alaçatı
1 response - Posted 12.07.15
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Fıstık Ahmet’in Yeri: The Perfect (Meyhane) Getaway
no responses - Posted 11.30.15
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no responses - Posted 10.28.15
Forty-five minutes south of Çannakale, a small but flourishing ferry port sits outside of the town of Geyikli. Nestled between olive groves and farms lies the main access point to the small island of Bozcaada. Until the late 1990s, Bozcaada was disputed territory between Turkey and Greece, isolating the island ...continue
İnciraltı: Meyhane Time Machine
no responses - Posted 10.02.15
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no responses - Posted 09.23.15
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no responses - Posted 06.05.15
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no responses - Posted 02.10.15
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CB on the Road: Island Hopping Fit for a Prince
no responses - Posted 08.06.14
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no responses - Posted 05.29.14
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no responses - Posted 04.19.14
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