Apr 25
Wednesday
Island — and Table — Hopping in Istanbul
Istanbul’s Princes’ Islands, a lovely archipelago just off the city’s Asian shore, offer what we believe to be the best travel bargain anywhere in the world. Whenever we’re in need of a vacation but can’t afford the airfare, a ferry awaits to take us to the islands. For the price of just a few liras, we’re transported to a small slice of traffic-free paradise where, if we manage to get away from the crowds and explore some of the islands’ quiet backstreets, we feel as if we’ve found our way back to the late 19th century and an Istanbul that no longer exists on the mainland.
We’re especially fond of the islands in springtime, when their Judas, Mimosa and wild plum trees are starting to bloom and a walk along one of their tranquil trails serves as the perfect cure for the lingering effects of the Istanbul winter blues. Of course, a good meal is essential any time of the year and we’ve been lucky enough to find a few spots on the islands that are worthy destinations in and of themselves. For those planning a visit to the Princes’ Islands, some suggestions below: Continue…
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Quick Look
Recent Posts
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Fazil Bey Kahvesi: Fad Proof
4 responses - Posted 05.18.12
Two young men stood about 15 feet apart on a sunny narrow street in the Kadikoy market, chafing in their brown lab coats. The one tending to a handful of white marble tables barked “buyrun!” (roughly, “come and get it!”) at passersby, the other quietly wiped down seven or eight black marble tables. The black tables – the ones in front ... continue -
Döner on the Side of Caution
1 response - Posted 05.17.12
We've previously sung the praises of Kasap Osman, a standby doner spot in the increasingly touristed Sirkeci neighborhood, but we've been getting unsettling reports from reliable sources that things might be slipping over there. We'll go to Osman's to check things out ourselves, but for now we suggest diners approach the spot with lowered expectations. Better yet, check out this ... continue -
Five Favorite Old-School Meyhanes
no responses - Posted 05.11.12
A recent article in one of Turkey’s English-language newspapers, describing plans by Mey İçki, Turkey’s largest producer of raki, to introduce the anise-flavored liquor to Europe, left us both steamed and amused. As part of its efforts to promote the consumption of raki, it appears the company – along with an outfit called the Tourism Research Association (TURAD) – has ... continue -
And the Winner Is….
3 responses - Posted 05.03.12
We are very proud to announce that we have been voted "Best Culinary Travel Blog" in Saveur Magazine's third annual Best Food Blog Awards competition. The competition was stiff and we were honored just to be included among that group of six finalists. A victory by any one of us would have been a victory for good taste. Thank you ... continue -
Vahap Usta: The Man Who Would Be (Kokoreç) King, Pt. I
1 response - Posted 05.01.12
Vahap Usta pulled a pair of reading glasses from the inside pocket of a snug dinner jacket and sifted through a stack of newspaper clippings. Here was a full spread from a major daily paper proclaiming him the “King of Kokoreç” and another with him in his signature tuxedo and bowtie in front of his stand in the central Sirkeci ... continue -
Island — and Table — Hopping in Istanbul
1 response - Posted 04.25.12
Istanbul's Princes' Islands, a lovely archipelago just off the city's Asian shore, offer what we believe to be the best travel bargain anywhere in the world. Whenever we're in need of a vacation but can't afford the airfare, a ferry awaits to take us to the islands. For the price of just a few liras, we're transported to a small ... continue -
Beyoglu Burger Wars: Counter Offensive
8 responses - Posted 04.23.12
Six months ago we were very concerned to see one of our favorite burger joints, Mano Burger, closed down. The workers gutting the place told us there was financial trouble. Someone else said they’d opened up shop on the Asian side, in Bostanci. For six months, Mano seemed to go incognito. We were then equally puzzled a couple of weeks ago ... continue
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Fazil Bey Kahvesi: Fad Proof
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All entries filed under this archive
Supermarket Cellars: Talay Tenedos Red
3 responses - Posted 04.06.12
(Editor’s Note: This is the third installment of our newest feature, “Supermarket Cellars,” which aims to uncover those drinkable Turkish wines that won’t kill your budget or, let’s face it, you. In charge of this mission is Aaron Stein – an expert on nuclear non-proliferation issues and PhD student by day, ...continue
3 responses - Posted 04.06.12
(Editor’s Note: This is the third installment of our newest feature, “Supermarket Cellars,” which aims to uncover those drinkable Turkish wines that won’t kill your budget or, let’s face it, you. In charge of this mission is Aaron Stein – an expert on nuclear non-proliferation issues and PhD student by day, ...continue
Supermarket Cellars: Shiraz Two Ways
3 responses - Posted 03.16.12
(Editor's Note: This is the second installment of our newest feature, "Supermarket Cellars," which aims to uncover those drinkable Turkish wines that won't kill your budget or, let's face it, you. In charge of this mission is Aaron Stein -- an expert on nuclear non-proliferation issues and PhD student by day, ...continue
3 responses - Posted 03.16.12
(Editor's Note: This is the second installment of our newest feature, "Supermarket Cellars," which aims to uncover those drinkable Turkish wines that won't kill your budget or, let's face it, you. In charge of this mission is Aaron Stein -- an expert on nuclear non-proliferation issues and PhD student by day, ...continue
Supermarket Cellars: Doluca Kav 2008
7 responses - Posted 02.27.12
(Editor's Note: This post marks the inauguration of "Supermarket Cellars," a new feature whose aim is to seek out affordable Turkish wines that are worth recommending. To assist us in doing that, we have enlisted the help of Aaron Stein -- an expert on nuclear non-proliferation issues and PhD student ...continue
7 responses - Posted 02.27.12
(Editor's Note: This post marks the inauguration of "Supermarket Cellars," a new feature whose aim is to seek out affordable Turkish wines that are worth recommending. To assist us in doing that, we have enlisted the help of Aaron Stein -- an expert on nuclear non-proliferation issues and PhD student ...continue
Istanbul Eats Drinks: Yaşasın Sparkling Wine
no responses - Posted 01.06.12
(Editor’s Note: This post is part of our ongoing “wine chats” with sommelier and oenophile Serdar Kombe. Today he talks about a Turkish sparkling wine that’s actually worth talking about.) 1. A wine expert whose opinion we trust told us that "Turkish bubblies are positively undrinkable!!!" Is that the case? Is ...continue
no responses - Posted 01.06.12
(Editor’s Note: This post is part of our ongoing “wine chats” with sommelier and oenophile Serdar Kombe. Today he talks about a Turkish sparkling wine that’s actually worth talking about.) 1. A wine expert whose opinion we trust told us that "Turkish bubblies are positively undrinkable!!!" Is that the case? Is ...continue
Heyamola Ada Lokantasi: Island Time
no responses - Posted 08.08.11
(Editor’s Note: This guest post was written by “Meliz,” an intrepid explorer of Istanbul's culinary backstreets who would like to keep her anonymity.) While the Princes’ Islands make for a great escape from the city, it’s been hard to think of them as a culinary destination. Until now. The new-offshore-kid-in-town, Heyamola ...continue
no responses - Posted 08.08.11
(Editor’s Note: This guest post was written by “Meliz,” an intrepid explorer of Istanbul's culinary backstreets who would like to keep her anonymity.) While the Princes’ Islands make for a great escape from the city, it’s been hard to think of them as a culinary destination. Until now. The new-offshore-kid-in-town, Heyamola ...continue
Istanbul Eats Drinks: Selendi Gulpembe Rosé 2010
no responses - Posted 06.03.11
(Editor’s Note: This post is part of our ongoing “wine talks” with sommelier and oenophile Serdar Kombe. Today he looks at a favorite Turkish rosé.) 1. Before we talk about this specific wine, tell us a bit about rosé in general: When do you drink it? Neither red nor white – ...continue
no responses - Posted 06.03.11
(Editor’s Note: This post is part of our ongoing “wine talks” with sommelier and oenophile Serdar Kombe. Today he looks at a favorite Turkish rosé.) 1. Before we talk about this specific wine, tell us a bit about rosé in general: When do you drink it? Neither red nor white – ...continue
Istanbul Eats Drinks: Melen Papazkarasi Reserve
3 responses - Posted 05.06.11
(Editor’s Note: We’ve recently been lucky enough to make the acquaintance of Serdar Kombe, one of Turkey’s leading oenophiles. These are exciting times for Turkish wine and Serdar has generously agreed to review wines for us. For today’s “wine chat,” Serdar chose to talk about the Melen Papazkarasi Reserve, a ...continue
3 responses - Posted 05.06.11
(Editor’s Note: We’ve recently been lucky enough to make the acquaintance of Serdar Kombe, one of Turkey’s leading oenophiles. These are exciting times for Turkish wine and Serdar has generously agreed to review wines for us. For today’s “wine chat,” Serdar chose to talk about the Melen Papazkarasi Reserve, a ...continue
Istanbul Eats Drinks: 2007 Umurbey Sauvignon Blanc
no responses - Posted 03.04.11
An affordable trip to New Zealand can be had by simply visiting your nearest wine shop in Istanbul and asking for a bottle of the Turkish-made Umurbey Sauvignon Blanc. Made from the same grapes that have helped put whites from New Zealand on the wine map, this local alternative is ...continue
no responses - Posted 03.04.11
An affordable trip to New Zealand can be had by simply visiting your nearest wine shop in Istanbul and asking for a bottle of the Turkish-made Umurbey Sauvignon Blanc. Made from the same grapes that have helped put whites from New Zealand on the wine map, this local alternative is ...continue
Istanbul Eats Drinks: Kavaklıdere Narince 2008
4 responses - Posted 02.11.11
(Editor's Note: We’ve recently been lucky enough to make the acquaintance of Serdar Kombe, one of Turkey’s leading oenophiles. These are exciting times for Turkish wine and Serdar has generously agreed to start a guest column for us about the subject. In his first review for us, he takes a ...continue
4 responses - Posted 02.11.11
(Editor's Note: We’ve recently been lucky enough to make the acquaintance of Serdar Kombe, one of Turkey’s leading oenophiles. These are exciting times for Turkish wine and Serdar has generously agreed to start a guest column for us about the subject. In his first review for us, he takes a ...continue
Istanbul Eats Drinks: Turkish Wine, Explained
3 responses - Posted 02.10.11
(Editor’s Note: We’ve recently been lucky enough to make the acquaintance of Serdar Kombe, one of Turkey’s leading oenophiles. These are exciting times for Turkish wine and Serdar has generously agreed to start a guest column for us about the subject. Today we are running a brief primer by Serdar ...continue
3 responses - Posted 02.10.11
(Editor’s Note: We’ve recently been lucky enough to make the acquaintance of Serdar Kombe, one of Turkey’s leading oenophiles. These are exciting times for Turkish wine and Serdar has generously agreed to start a guest column for us about the subject. Today we are running a brief primer by Serdar ...continue
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