Aug 06
Friday
The Kokoreç Trifecta of Galata: Smoke, Guts and Glory
In Istanbul, offal-eating traditions run deep. In the wee hours, the horde heads out for tripe and trotter soup. Some butcher shops, like exclusive boutiques, sell nothing but organs, hanging them proudly in the glass vitrine like so many Fendi handbags. We’ve written at length about finer points of kelle, sheep’s head, and our adoration for liver. But Istanbul’s favorite innard remains kokoreç, or grilled sheep intestines chopped with peppers and tomatoes, and in the streets around the Galata Tower we have identified three great spots to enjoy it. Continue…
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Quick Look
Recent Posts
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Inciralti: Meyhane Time Machine
1 response - Posted 08.30.10
We like to think of Inciralti, a laid back meyhane in the sleepy Bosphorus-side Beylerbeyi neighborhood, as a destination restaurant – not so much because of the food, but because of the destination itself. Not that there’s anything wrong with the food here, which is reliably well made. The meze tray at Inciralti (which means “under the fig tree” in Turkish) ... continue -
The Esnaf Nouveau: Blue Collar Food, White Collar Style
no responses - Posted 08.27.10
In the rapidly developing Istanbul district of Beyoglu, a new concept restaurant is born everyday – Korean fried chicken, construct your own canapé, a restaurant claiming to serve the widest variety soups in the world, etc. If a place makes it past infancy, pirated versions of the original are sure to follow. The market is thriving and those who live, ... continue -
Istanbul Eats Walks!
2 responses - Posted 08.26.10
We are happy to announce the start of our culinary walks program! Turkish cuisine, like Turkey itself, channels cultural currents coming in from every direction, resulting in the delicious culinary chaos that is Istanbul. Turks, Greeks, Arabs, Persians and countless others have passed through here, leaving an indelible stamp on the cuisine. Historians speak of the “layered” nature of the city; ... continue -
Brews With Views
3 responses - Posted 08.23.10
(Editor's Note: we first ran this roundup last summer, but we're bringing it back for those who may have not found it in our archive.) The mojito may go the way of the grasshopper and other forgotten cocktails, but a cold beer accompanied by a panoramic view of the waters and hills of Istanbul will never go out of style. Though ... continue -
Istanbul Eats on the Road: Breakfast in Bursa
no responses - Posted 08.20.10
With all of the hype around Bursa’s claim to fame, the Iskender kebab, you’d think Bursans persisted on a diet of thinly sliced doner, pide, tomato sauce and frothy melted butter. But in between the spinning meat-sicles, the very icon of Turkish fast food, the markets of Bursa offer a bounty of traditional syrupy sweets, fresh fruits and berries, farm ... continue -
Read the Blog, Buy the Book
1 response - Posted 08.18.10
We're happy to announce that we are now taking orders from anyone outside of Turkey that wants to buy our book. All you have to do is click "Buy the Book Now" button on the ad on the right. Books cost $15, which includes shipping to anywhere in Europe or the United States and Canada. Payment is via PayPal. continue -
Ramadan’s Iftar: The Break Fast of Champions
no responses - Posted 08.16.10
Think of Ramadan as a kind of month-long biathalon that consists of an all-day race to beat back the hunger and thirst of fasting, followed by an all-night marathon of eating and drinking in order to fortify the body for the next day’s fast. In recent years in Turkey, iftar, the traditional break fast meal that used to mostly consist ... continue
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Inciralti: Meyhane Time Machine
The Istanbul Eats Book
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All entries filed under this archive
Fight For Your Right to Eat on the Street
no responses - Posted 08.05.10
A disturbing article in today's Hurriyet Daily News reports on efforts by the Beyoglu and Fatih municipalities to crack down on "unlicensed" street food vendors. As increasingly hassled vendors tell HDN's reporter, licenses are almost impossible to get. Meanwhile, a Beyoglu municipal official tells HDN that the only street food they ...continue
no responses - Posted 08.05.10
A disturbing article in today's Hurriyet Daily News reports on efforts by the Beyoglu and Fatih municipalities to crack down on "unlicensed" street food vendors. As increasingly hassled vendors tell HDN's reporter, licenses are almost impossible to get. Meanwhile, a Beyoglu municipal official tells HDN that the only street food they ...continue
Gozleme Organik: Don’t Call it a Pancake
no responses - Posted 07.16.10
“You’re going to make mine thin,” said an old man with Coke bottle glasses. “Not too thin, it will break. We load these full of stuff, sir, and it’s all organic!” replied Hacer hanim. “Whatever, just make mine thin and put some cheese in there,” the man grumbled. Hacer hanim turned her back ...continue
no responses - Posted 07.16.10
“You’re going to make mine thin,” said an old man with Coke bottle glasses. “Not too thin, it will break. We load these full of stuff, sir, and it’s all organic!” replied Hacer hanim. “Whatever, just make mine thin and put some cheese in there,” the man grumbled. Hacer hanim turned her back ...continue
Pamuk Usta’s Nohut Durum: Garbanzo Gone Gonzo
2 responses - Posted 06.21.10
In previous posts, we’ve reported on the unusual eating habits in Turkey’s hot and dusty southeast. In Gaziantep, we noted the “wake and flake” baklava breakfast. In Urfa it was a morning dose of grilled liver. But in the town of Nizip (and elsewhere in the area), the favored first ...continue
2 responses - Posted 06.21.10
In previous posts, we’ve reported on the unusual eating habits in Turkey’s hot and dusty southeast. In Gaziantep, we noted the “wake and flake” baklava breakfast. In Urfa it was a morning dose of grilled liver. But in the town of Nizip (and elsewhere in the area), the favored first ...continue
Up in Smoke: Homegrown Turkish Delights
2 responses - Posted 05.20.10
Yesterday, a New York Times article, titled “Marijuana Fuels a New Kitchen Culture,” reported that some “chefs are unabashedly open about marijuana’s role in their creative and recreational lives and its effect on their restaurants.” With dishes like poutine of foie grois, cereal milk flavored soft-serve ice cream and deep-fried ...continue
2 responses - Posted 05.20.10
Yesterday, a New York Times article, titled “Marijuana Fuels a New Kitchen Culture,” reported that some “chefs are unabashedly open about marijuana’s role in their creative and recreational lives and its effect on their restaurants.” With dishes like poutine of foie grois, cereal milk flavored soft-serve ice cream and deep-fried ...continue
Read Between the Buns 3: Istanbul’s Burgers
4 responses - Posted 04.14.10
(Editor’s Note: We've been looking this week at some of the new burger places that have recently opened up in Istanbul. After trying out some of these new joints, our thoughts kept drifting back to the classic "Wet Burger" served by Kizilkayalar in Taksim. A true Turkish original, the "Wet ...continue
4 responses - Posted 04.14.10
(Editor’s Note: We've been looking this week at some of the new burger places that have recently opened up in Istanbul. After trying out some of these new joints, our thoughts kept drifting back to the classic "Wet Burger" served by Kizilkayalar in Taksim. A true Turkish original, the "Wet ...continue
2nd Photo Competition: Winner of Week 2
2 responses - Posted 03.31.10
We are proud to announce the second weekly winner of our 2nd photo competition, which is focusing on portraits of people working in the food business. The weekly winners will be among the group of “top 10” submitted images, from which our readers will select a final winner. The contest ends ...continue
2 responses - Posted 03.31.10
We are proud to announce the second weekly winner of our 2nd photo competition, which is focusing on portraits of people working in the food business. The weekly winners will be among the group of “top 10” submitted images, from which our readers will select a final winner. The contest ends ...continue
Hey EU, Hands off my doner!
2 responses - Posted 03.10.10
Turkey’s EU accession talks have raised a lot of important questions on reform, accompanied by predictable growing pains. But the latest news from Ankara, which can be read in Turkish in this article in the daily Radikal newspaper, makes us more than a bit uncomfortable. According to the article, Turkey’s food ...continue
2 responses - Posted 03.10.10
Turkey’s EU accession talks have raised a lot of important questions on reform, accompanied by predictable growing pains. But the latest news from Ankara, which can be read in Turkish in this article in the daily Radikal newspaper, makes us more than a bit uncomfortable. According to the article, Turkey’s food ...continue
Kelle Söğüş vs. Kelle Tandir: Face/Off
2 responses - Posted 03.01.10
Don’t people just love to fight about food? Punch ups over which city makes the best pizza, brawls about what’s the right way to barbecue. Louis and Ella nearly called the whole thing off over the pronunciation of the word “tomato.” In this pugilistic spirit, we took our place at a ...continue
2 responses - Posted 03.01.10
Don’t people just love to fight about food? Punch ups over which city makes the best pizza, brawls about what’s the right way to barbecue. Louis and Ella nearly called the whole thing off over the pronunciation of the word “tomato.” In this pugilistic spirit, we took our place at a ...continue
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