Mar 08
Monday
Istiridye Balik Lokantasi: The Business of Lunch
Just as we thought we had managed to break out of our Beyoglu dining rut, we found ourselves once again trawling the neighborhood’s streets for places to eat. To be more specific, we found ourselves walking along Mumhane Caddesi, a street in the waterfront Karakoy area that has so many good restaurants along it that it acts as a kind of culinary vortex, radiating a magnetic pull that we find hard to resist.
This time around, the street’s siren call was Istiridye Balik Lokantasi, an old-fashioned fish restaurant that caters to a lunchtime crowd of local office workers and executives. Continue…
All entries filed under this archive
Since You Asked: Istanbul’s Fish Scene?
8 responses - Posted 02.24.10
I am just back home from a cruise to Turkey, which included a short stay in Istanbul. I was pleasantly surprised to find such a strong seafood culture there. Shame on me for expecting lamb, lamb and more lamb! I indulged and managed to identify some of the fish I ...continue
8 responses - Posted 02.24.10
I am just back home from a cruise to Turkey, which included a short stay in Istanbul. I was pleasantly surprised to find such a strong seafood culture there. Shame on me for expecting lamb, lamb and more lamb! I indulged and managed to identify some of the fish I ...continue
The Best Little Fish House in Galata Gets a Bit Bigger
1 response - Posted 02.22.10
Good news for those who have tried to eat at Furreyya Galata Balikcisi, the winning fish house near the Galata tower, only to find the tiny place full: the restaurant has recently remodeled, doubling its number of tables. Bad news for those who have tried to eat at Furreyya, only ...continue
1 response - Posted 02.22.10
Good news for those who have tried to eat at Furreyya Galata Balikcisi, the winning fish house near the Galata tower, only to find the tiny place full: the restaurant has recently remodeled, doubling its number of tables. Bad news for those who have tried to eat at Furreyya, only ...continue
Beyoglu Oğretmenevi: The Teacher’s Lounge
2 responses - Posted 02.15.10
Like Ataturk statues and crescent-and-star flags etched into the sides of mountains, the oğretmenevi (“teacher’s house”) is an integral part of the Turkish landscape. Found in almost every city in Turkey, the government-run oğretmenevi acts as an affordable guesthouse for educators on the road and – since anyone is welcome ...continue
2 responses - Posted 02.15.10
Like Ataturk statues and crescent-and-star flags etched into the sides of mountains, the oğretmenevi (“teacher’s house”) is an integral part of the Turkish landscape. Found in almost every city in Turkey, the government-run oğretmenevi acts as an affordable guesthouse for educators on the road and – since anyone is welcome ...continue
48 Hours in Istanbul: An Eater’s Guide
7 responses - Posted 02.08.10
(Editor's Note: The New York Times' travel section recently ran a "36 Hours in Istanbul" feature that was low on good eating suggestions. Prompted by the Times piece, today's post is a food-centric "48 Hours in Istanbul" guide we prepared a few months ago for a local magazine.) Day One: Turkey’s ...continue
7 responses - Posted 02.08.10
(Editor's Note: The New York Times' travel section recently ran a "36 Hours in Istanbul" feature that was low on good eating suggestions. Prompted by the Times piece, today's post is a food-centric "48 Hours in Istanbul" guide we prepared a few months ago for a local magazine.) Day One: Turkey’s ...continue
Sultanahmet’s Dining Secrets
4 responses - Posted 01.29.10
Call it the Sultanahmet Squeeze: How to stay close to the monuments of the Old City and avoid eating in tourist traps? We get this question a lot. We. Since the Sultanahmet area is primarily a tourism zone, locals-only haunts are few and far between. At most restaurants, prices tend ...continue
4 responses - Posted 01.29.10
Call it the Sultanahmet Squeeze: How to stay close to the monuments of the Old City and avoid eating in tourist traps? We get this question a lot. We. Since the Sultanahmet area is primarily a tourism zone, locals-only haunts are few and far between. At most restaurants, prices tend ...continue
Çukur Meyhanesi: When Liver Met Hamsi
1 response - Posted 01.25.10
It wasn’t quite as dramatic as Meg Ryan’s big moment at Katz’s deli in “When Harry Met Sally,” but a low-register, guttural moan of pleasure was detected from our table upon our tasting of the shredded celery root in yogurt, a house specialty meze at Beyoglu’s Çukur Meyhanesi. And we ...continue
1 response - Posted 01.25.10
It wasn’t quite as dramatic as Meg Ryan’s big moment at Katz’s deli in “When Harry Met Sally,” but a low-register, guttural moan of pleasure was detected from our table upon our tasting of the shredded celery root in yogurt, a house specialty meze at Beyoglu’s Çukur Meyhanesi. And we ...continue
Sofyali 9: Keeping it Real in Asmalimescit
1 response - Posted 12.28.09
It’s hard not to feel pangs of nostalgia when walking through Beyoglu’s booming Asmalimescit neighborhood these days (and nights). The old corner butcher shop with its window display of lamb carcasses? Gone and replaced by a generic bar imaginatively named “The Corner.” The veteran grocery store where the colorful and ...continue
1 response - Posted 12.28.09
It’s hard not to feel pangs of nostalgia when walking through Beyoglu’s booming Asmalimescit neighborhood these days (and nights). The old corner butcher shop with its window display of lamb carcasses? Gone and replaced by a generic bar imaginatively named “The Corner.” The veteran grocery store where the colorful and ...continue
Koco: Quest for the Holy Grill
no responses - Posted 11.02.09
Reviewers are often tempted into using metaphors that portray the restaurant as a sacred place -- the sushi temple, a t-bone pilgrimage, chili-cheese fry heaven. But in Istanbul’s Moda district on the Asian shore, we’ve found a praiseworthy fish restaurant that could justifiably be described as a shrine – literally. ...continue
no responses - Posted 11.02.09
Reviewers are often tempted into using metaphors that portray the restaurant as a sacred place -- the sushi temple, a t-bone pilgrimage, chili-cheese fry heaven. But in Istanbul’s Moda district on the Asian shore, we’ve found a praiseworthy fish restaurant that could justifiably be described as a shrine – literally. ...continue
Hamsi Time
no responses - Posted 10.27.09
Istanbul Eats' Yigal Schleifer has a post on the New York Times' Globespotters blog about the start of hamsi season in Istanbul. Hamsi is the Turkish name for the finger-sized anchovy caught in the waters of the Black Sea. Though small and inexpensive, hamsi holds a sacred place in the ...continue
no responses - Posted 10.27.09
Istanbul Eats' Yigal Schleifer has a post on the New York Times' Globespotters blog about the start of hamsi season in Istanbul. Hamsi is the Turkish name for the finger-sized anchovy caught in the waters of the Black Sea. Though small and inexpensive, hamsi holds a sacred place in the ...continue
Grifin: Seafood Oasis
no responses - Posted 10.23.09
In Karaköy’s Persembe Pazari, a historic commercial district on the shores of the Golden Horn, the dining scene is decidedly no-frills. Simple lunch spots thrive by day on the business of hungry and busy people buying and selling hardware – a meat and potatoes crowd. Any white tablecloth in these ...continue
no responses - Posted 10.23.09
In Karaköy’s Persembe Pazari, a historic commercial district on the shores of the Golden Horn, the dining scene is decidedly no-frills. Simple lunch spots thrive by day on the business of hungry and busy people buying and selling hardware – a meat and potatoes crowd. Any white tablecloth in these ...continue
Kosinitza: Trattoria ala Turca
no responses - Posted 10.20.09
(Editor's Note: This guest post was written by Kathryn Tomasetti and Tristan Rutherford, freelance travel journalists for The Guardian, The Independent and Time Out, among others. Their website can be found here.) Kosinitza is located in the charming Bosphorus-side village of Kuzguncuk, a short bus ride north of Üsküdar. It’s a time-forgotten ...continue
no responses - Posted 10.20.09
(Editor's Note: This guest post was written by Kathryn Tomasetti and Tristan Rutherford, freelance travel journalists for The Guardian, The Independent and Time Out, among others. Their website can be found here.) Kosinitza is located in the charming Bosphorus-side village of Kuzguncuk, a short bus ride north of Üsküdar. It’s a time-forgotten ...continue
Istanbul Street (food) Photography
no responses - Posted 09.23.09
One that got away at Karakoy's fish market. Photo by Jonathan Lewis. continue
no responses - Posted 09.23.09
One that got away at Karakoy's fish market. Photo by Jonathan Lewis. continue
Kiyi: A Winning Island Castaway
no responses - Posted 07.27.09
Although the area around the ferry terminal on Buyukada, the largest of the Princes’ Islands, tends to get unbearably crowded during the summer, we’re still big fans of making the occasional visit to the island. A horse carriage ride past breezy (and blessedly car free) Buyukada’s grand mansions or a ...continue
no responses - Posted 07.27.09
Although the area around the ferry terminal on Buyukada, the largest of the Princes’ Islands, tends to get unbearably crowded during the summer, we’re still big fans of making the occasional visit to the island. A horse carriage ride past breezy (and blessedly car free) Buyukada’s grand mansions or a ...continue
Adem Baba: Soleman
1 response - Posted 07.10.09
It must have taken an entire fleet-worth of nets, harpoons, anchors, life preservers, and buoys to decorate the dining rooms of Adem Baba. The decorations makes sense: the restaurant got its start as humble, boat-borne kitchen floating dockside in the Bosphorus neighborhood of Arnavutkoy, although now it has transformed itself ...continue
1 response - Posted 07.10.09
It must have taken an entire fleet-worth of nets, harpoons, anchors, life preservers, and buoys to decorate the dining rooms of Adem Baba. The decorations makes sense: the restaurant got its start as humble, boat-borne kitchen floating dockside in the Bosphorus neighborhood of Arnavutkoy, although now it has transformed itself ...continue
Ismet Baba: Great Fish for Goodfellas
no responses - Posted 06.26.09
As the ferry approaches the dock at Kuzguncuk, a charming Bosphorus neighborhood on the Asian side, and passengers start scrambling for position at the bow to be the first to hop off, a soft yellow light, raki-fueled laughter and a whiff of grilled fish seem to guide the boat in ...continue
no responses - Posted 06.26.09
As the ferry approaches the dock at Kuzguncuk, a charming Bosphorus neighborhood on the Asian side, and passengers start scrambling for position at the bow to be the first to hop off, a soft yellow light, raki-fueled laughter and a whiff of grilled fish seem to guide the boat in ...continue
Akın Balık: (the other) Karaköy Fish House
4 responses - Posted 05.15.09
For good reason, there is a well-beaten path to Karaköy Balıkcısı, an excellent fish restaurant in Perşembe Pazarı, a district near the Golden Horn filled with small shops selling power tools and bathroom fixtures. The fish there is superb; as it should be for a lunch that can cost $40 ...continue
4 responses - Posted 05.15.09
For good reason, there is a well-beaten path to Karaköy Balıkcısı, an excellent fish restaurant in Perşembe Pazarı, a district near the Golden Horn filled with small shops selling power tools and bathroom fixtures. The fish there is superb; as it should be for a lunch that can cost $40 ...continue
Breaking News: Körfez to Close
no responses - Posted 05.13.09
Here at Istanbul Eats, we’ve been procrastinating on a review of the venerable Bosphorus fine dining and high living establishment Körfez. From the private boat shuttle that takes diners across the Bosphorus to the small, Asian-side cove that is the restaurant’s home, to the delicious sea bass baked in salt, Körfez is one ...continue
no responses - Posted 05.13.09
Here at Istanbul Eats, we’ve been procrastinating on a review of the venerable Bosphorus fine dining and high living establishment Körfez. From the private boat shuttle that takes diners across the Bosphorus to the small, Asian-side cove that is the restaurant’s home, to the delicious sea bass baked in salt, Körfez is one ...continue
Karaköy Lokantasi: A Dockside Winner
3 responses - Posted 04.17.09
Tucked into the street behind the yet-to-be gentrified docks at Karaköy, among shops advertising boat tickets to Odessa and cubby-sized import & export offices, is the neighborhood’s culinary port of call, Karaköy Lokantasi. With great food, personable service and tasteful décor, this family-operated eatery defiantly proves that a good dining ...continue
3 responses - Posted 04.17.09
Tucked into the street behind the yet-to-be gentrified docks at Karaköy, among shops advertising boat tickets to Odessa and cubby-sized import & export offices, is the neighborhood’s culinary port of call, Karaköy Lokantasi. With great food, personable service and tasteful décor, this family-operated eatery defiantly proves that a good dining ...continue
Fürreyya: Best Little Fish House in Galata
5 responses - Posted 04.06.09
From the outside, Fürreyya Galata Balıkcısı, a tiny new restaurant in Beyoglu's quaint Galata area, doesn't look like much. Two tables, two stools at a short counter, a smoky grill and not much else. But Inside this modest fish shack beats the heart of a more ambitious place. The friendly ...continue
5 responses - Posted 04.06.09
From the outside, Fürreyya Galata Balıkcısı, a tiny new restaurant in Beyoglu's quaint Galata area, doesn't look like much. Two tables, two stools at a short counter, a smoky grill and not much else. But Inside this modest fish shack beats the heart of a more ambitious place. The friendly ...continue
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