May 18
Friday
Fazil Bey Kahvesi: Fad Proof
Two young men stood about 15 feet apart on a sunny narrow street in the Kadikoy market, chafing in their brown lab coats. The one tending to a handful of white marble tables barked “buyrun!” (roughly, “come and get it!”) at passersby, the other quietly wiped down seven or eight black marble tables.
The black tables – the ones in front of the veteran Fazil Bey Kahvesi – used to be white until they were replaced when a gaggle of upstart neighboring cafes put out their own white tables, presumably hoping to siphon off some of Fazil Bey’s business. Next door is Yavuz Bey and next to that Hurrem Efendi and just across the street Niyazi Bey, all serving Turkish coffee and seating customers at the same white marble tables. Buyrun!
In Istanbul, fads burn white hot and competition can be comically ruthless. Be it coffee or mojitos, you’ll see butcher shops, bookstores and pharmacies retrofitted overnight to capitalize on the latest popular trend. We even know one (now former) barber, Suleyman, who recently hung up his shears, donned a fez and turned his barbershop into place to squeeze and sell fruit juice. Continue…
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Fazil Bey Kahvesi: Fad Proof
4 responses - Posted 05.18.12
Two young men stood about 15 feet apart on a sunny narrow street in the Kadikoy market, chafing in their brown lab coats. The one tending to a handful of white marble tables barked “buyrun!” (roughly, “come and get it!”) at passersby, the other quietly wiped down seven or eight black marble tables. The black tables – the ones in front ... continue -
Döner on the Side of Caution
1 response - Posted 05.17.12
We've previously sung the praises of Kasap Osman, a standby doner spot in the increasingly touristed Sirkeci neighborhood, but we've been getting unsettling reports from reliable sources that things might be slipping over there. We'll go to Osman's to check things out ourselves, but for now we suggest diners approach the spot with lowered expectations. Better yet, check out this ... continue -
Five Favorite Old-School Meyhanes
no responses - Posted 05.11.12
A recent article in one of Turkey’s English-language newspapers, describing plans by Mey İçki, Turkey’s largest producer of raki, to introduce the anise-flavored liquor to Europe, left us both steamed and amused. As part of its efforts to promote the consumption of raki, it appears the company – along with an outfit called the Tourism Research Association (TURAD) – has ... continue -
And the Winner Is….
3 responses - Posted 05.03.12
We are very proud to announce that we have been voted "Best Culinary Travel Blog" in Saveur Magazine's third annual Best Food Blog Awards competition. The competition was stiff and we were honored just to be included among that group of six finalists. A victory by any one of us would have been a victory for good taste. Thank you ... continue -
Vahap Usta: The Man Who Would Be (Kokoreç) King, Pt. I
1 response - Posted 05.01.12
Vahap Usta pulled a pair of reading glasses from the inside pocket of a snug dinner jacket and sifted through a stack of newspaper clippings. Here was a full spread from a major daily paper proclaiming him the “King of Kokoreç” and another with him in his signature tuxedo and bowtie in front of his stand in the central Sirkeci ... continue -
Island — and Table — Hopping in Istanbul
1 response - Posted 04.25.12
Istanbul's Princes' Islands, a lovely archipelago just off the city's Asian shore, offer what we believe to be the best travel bargain anywhere in the world. Whenever we're in need of a vacation but can't afford the airfare, a ferry awaits to take us to the islands. For the price of just a few liras, we're transported to a small ... continue -
Beyoglu Burger Wars: Counter Offensive
8 responses - Posted 04.23.12
Six months ago we were very concerned to see one of our favorite burger joints, Mano Burger, closed down. The workers gutting the place told us there was financial trouble. Someone else said they’d opened up shop on the Asian side, in Bostanci. For six months, Mano seemed to go incognito. We were then equally puzzled a couple of weeks ago ... continue
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Fazil Bey Kahvesi: Fad Proof
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All entries filed under Reviews (Drinks)
Supermarket Cellars: Talay Tenedos Red
3 responses - Posted 04.06.12
(Editor’s Note: This is the third installment of our newest feature, “Supermarket Cellars,” which aims to uncover those drinkable Turkish wines that won’t kill your budget or, let’s face it, you. In charge of this mission is Aaron Stein – an expert on nuclear non-proliferation issues and PhD student by day, ...continue
3 responses - Posted 04.06.12
(Editor’s Note: This is the third installment of our newest feature, “Supermarket Cellars,” which aims to uncover those drinkable Turkish wines that won’t kill your budget or, let’s face it, you. In charge of this mission is Aaron Stein – an expert on nuclear non-proliferation issues and PhD student by day, ...continue
Supermarket Cellars: Shiraz Two Ways
3 responses - Posted 03.16.12
(Editor's Note: This is the second installment of our newest feature, "Supermarket Cellars," which aims to uncover those drinkable Turkish wines that won't kill your budget or, let's face it, you. In charge of this mission is Aaron Stein -- an expert on nuclear non-proliferation issues and PhD student by day, ...continue
3 responses - Posted 03.16.12
(Editor's Note: This is the second installment of our newest feature, "Supermarket Cellars," which aims to uncover those drinkable Turkish wines that won't kill your budget or, let's face it, you. In charge of this mission is Aaron Stein -- an expert on nuclear non-proliferation issues and PhD student by day, ...continue
Supermarket Cellars: Doluca Kav 2008
7 responses - Posted 02.27.12
(Editor's Note: This post marks the inauguration of "Supermarket Cellars," a new feature whose aim is to seek out affordable Turkish wines that are worth recommending. To assist us in doing that, we have enlisted the help of Aaron Stein -- an expert on nuclear non-proliferation issues and PhD student ...continue
7 responses - Posted 02.27.12
(Editor's Note: This post marks the inauguration of "Supermarket Cellars," a new feature whose aim is to seek out affordable Turkish wines that are worth recommending. To assist us in doing that, we have enlisted the help of Aaron Stein -- an expert on nuclear non-proliferation issues and PhD student ...continue
Osman’s Truck: Occupy Karakoy
4 responses - Posted 02.06.12
We generally wouldn’t recommend pulling yourself up into the back of a broken down truck with no license plates that’s sitting in an empty lot down by the river, but Osman’s truck offers a rare glimpse of Istanbul if there really were no rules, and, not to mention, great views ...continue
4 responses - Posted 02.06.12
We generally wouldn’t recommend pulling yourself up into the back of a broken down truck with no license plates that’s sitting in an empty lot down by the river, but Osman’s truck offers a rare glimpse of Istanbul if there really were no rules, and, not to mention, great views ...continue
Istanbul Eats Drinks: Yaşasın Sparkling Wine
no responses - Posted 01.06.12
(Editor’s Note: This post is part of our ongoing “wine chats” with sommelier and oenophile Serdar Kombe. Today he talks about a Turkish sparkling wine that’s actually worth talking about.) 1. A wine expert whose opinion we trust told us that "Turkish bubblies are positively undrinkable!!!" Is that the case? Is ...continue
no responses - Posted 01.06.12
(Editor’s Note: This post is part of our ongoing “wine chats” with sommelier and oenophile Serdar Kombe. Today he talks about a Turkish sparkling wine that’s actually worth talking about.) 1. A wine expert whose opinion we trust told us that "Turkish bubblies are positively undrinkable!!!" Is that the case? Is ...continue
Istanbul Eats Drinks: Selendi Gulpembe Rosé 2010
no responses - Posted 06.03.11
(Editor’s Note: This post is part of our ongoing “wine talks” with sommelier and oenophile Serdar Kombe. Today he looks at a favorite Turkish rosé.) 1. Before we talk about this specific wine, tell us a bit about rosé in general: When do you drink it? Neither red nor white – ...continue
no responses - Posted 06.03.11
(Editor’s Note: This post is part of our ongoing “wine talks” with sommelier and oenophile Serdar Kombe. Today he looks at a favorite Turkish rosé.) 1. Before we talk about this specific wine, tell us a bit about rosé in general: When do you drink it? Neither red nor white – ...continue
Istanbul Eats Drinks: Melen Papazkarasi Reserve
3 responses - Posted 05.06.11
(Editor’s Note: We’ve recently been lucky enough to make the acquaintance of Serdar Kombe, one of Turkey’s leading oenophiles. These are exciting times for Turkish wine and Serdar has generously agreed to review wines for us. For today’s “wine chat,” Serdar chose to talk about the Melen Papazkarasi Reserve, a ...continue
3 responses - Posted 05.06.11
(Editor’s Note: We’ve recently been lucky enough to make the acquaintance of Serdar Kombe, one of Turkey’s leading oenophiles. These are exciting times for Turkish wine and Serdar has generously agreed to review wines for us. For today’s “wine chat,” Serdar chose to talk about the Melen Papazkarasi Reserve, a ...continue
Haymatlos: Down and Out in the Rumeli Han
4 responses - Posted 04.11.11
When left alone by real estate developers, the late Ottoman-era hans of Beyoglu are fertile ground for commercial misfits you’d never encounter in more visible locations. Like mushrooms in a dark damp place, some of the city’s most individualistic enterprises – tattoo parlors, pirate DVD shops, Off Track Betting parlors, ...continue
4 responses - Posted 04.11.11
When left alone by real estate developers, the late Ottoman-era hans of Beyoglu are fertile ground for commercial misfits you’d never encounter in more visible locations. Like mushrooms in a dark damp place, some of the city’s most individualistic enterprises – tattoo parlors, pirate DVD shops, Off Track Betting parlors, ...continue
Istanbul Eats Drinks: 2007 Pamukkale Anfora Shiraz
no responses - Posted 04.01.11
(Editor’s Note: We’ve recently been lucky enough to make the acquaintance of Serdar Kombe, one of Turkey’s leading oenophiles. These are exciting times for Turkish wine and Serdar has generously agreed to review wines for us. For today’s “wine chat,” Serdar chose to talk about the 2007 Pamukkale Anfora Shiraz.) 1. ...continue
no responses - Posted 04.01.11
(Editor’s Note: We’ve recently been lucky enough to make the acquaintance of Serdar Kombe, one of Turkey’s leading oenophiles. These are exciting times for Turkish wine and Serdar has generously agreed to review wines for us. For today’s “wine chat,” Serdar chose to talk about the 2007 Pamukkale Anfora Shiraz.) 1. ...continue
Istanbul Eats Drinks: 2007 Umurbey Sauvignon Blanc
no responses - Posted 03.04.11
An affordable trip to New Zealand can be had by simply visiting your nearest wine shop in Istanbul and asking for a bottle of the Turkish-made Umurbey Sauvignon Blanc. Made from the same grapes that have helped put whites from New Zealand on the wine map, this local alternative is ...continue
no responses - Posted 03.04.11
An affordable trip to New Zealand can be had by simply visiting your nearest wine shop in Istanbul and asking for a bottle of the Turkish-made Umurbey Sauvignon Blanc. Made from the same grapes that have helped put whites from New Zealand on the wine map, this local alternative is ...continue
Istanbul Eats: A Serious Eater's Guide to the City |
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