Not that there’s anything wrong with the food here, which is reliably well made. The meze tray at Inciralti (which means “under the fig tree” in Turkish) is brought to your table carrying all the classics, plus a few welcome and tasty surprises, such as the zingy brined twigs of the caper plant and a sea bass filet that had been cured in a piquant sauce redolent of curry. Among the excellent mains we had sea bass again, this time grilled wrapped inside grape vine leaves, and meltingly soft uykuluk (sweetbreads), that were also grilled and dusted with oregano and red pepper. Both were winners.

But it’s Inciralti’s location that will have us coming back, especially if we’re looking for an opportunity to take an excursion without leaving Istanbul. Located on the Bosphorus’s Asian side, Beylerbeyi is a like a miniature and untouristed version of the more popular Ortakoy neighborhood on the European side, mercifully free of the tchotchke vendors and crowds that today line Ortakoy’s narrow streets. Stepping off the evening ferry from Eminonu at Beylerbeyi’s old wooden one-room ferry terminal feels a bit like stepping back in time. There are few Bosphorus-side neighborhoods that have managed to keep their unpretentious original charm they way this one has.

Inciralti, meanwhile, is located inside a welcoming old house on a small side street a few steps away from the ferry terminal. In the back there’s a leafy garden (home to the restaurant’s namesake fig tree) that, like Beylerbeyi itself, has a transporting quality to it. On a recent night, we found it to be one of the better places in town to forget about Istanbul’s hustle and bustle and to get away from the city’s summer heat.

(Note: to reach Beylerbeyi, take the Bosphorus commuter ferry that leaves from Eminonu. Check the schedule here: www.ido.com.tr)

Address: Arabacılar Sok. No:4, Beylerbeyi
Telephone: 216-557-6686
Web: www.inciralti.com.tr

(photo by Yigal Schleifer)

But even as the average Beyoglu working stiff profile shifts from a spackle-spattered demographic to one which smells of L’Occitane products, certain dietary habits never change. It might as well be written in the Turkish constitution that all working people are entitled to an inexpensive lunch of daily specials roughly estimating the home-cooked meals that mom prepares. This is the right of the esnaf, or tradesmen.

Whereas the traditional esnaf lokantasi has a standard interior design – one we associate with a hastily built hospital cafeteria – and a staff and clientele that remind us of an American diner, these days we are noticing a pleasant new trend in the esnaf lokantasi tradition. Without straying too far from the typical esnaf offerings, a new class of restaurant has emerged adding more creature comforts to traditional Turkish comfort food, something we are calling “Esnaf Nouveau.”

Take the example of the charming Golge, a small restaurant/café located on an athmospheric Beyoglu back alley. Though exposed steel beams, nostalgic tiles and thick wooden tables might be the signature of chic places like House Café, theirs is a mere forgery of the Golge aesthetic. Ten years ago, when Golge was opened by a stylish husband and wife team, there were plenty of esnaf lokantasi around, but none that looked and felt like this place.

Golge was also one of the first to bring home-style esnaf favorites into a mellow café setting. The daily specials often include a thicker-than-usual cacik, or chopped cucumbers in garlicky yogurt, a mound of moist, red bulgur pilav and something slow-roasted and delicious. On a recent visit, the chalkboard promised specials such as roasted chicken over begendi, a creamy eggplant puree, or vegetables in a clay pot. Though esnaf lokantasi purists might recoil at the cheesecake on offer, the gullaç, a traditional Ramazan milk pudding flavored by rose water, is the real deal.

Taking the cue from Esnaf Nouveau standards like Golge, the newly opened Dai Pera has upped the ante by adding alcohol, with a strong focus on Turkish wines, to an otherwise conservative menu. On one recent visit we had a plate of very credible green beans stewed with chopped veal alongside a pile of buttery rice flecked with thin, dark erişte noodles. We couldn’t resist the kadin budu köfte, a batter-coated and fried meat patty thought to resemble ladies thighs. The vine leaves stuffed with rice and meat were standouts. We didn’t consult the sommelier about the appropriate wine pairing for this feast, but we can attest that a cold Efes beer worked out just fine.

Along with the home-cooked traditional specials, the new school esnaf restaurants understand that a tradesman wants lunch fast and at a good price. Daily menus rarely exceed 20 TL and, in a pinch, could be gobbled down in a hurried half hour lunch break.

Golge Cafe
Address: Olivia gecidi 7, Galatasaray
Telephone: 212-251-8430

DAI Pera
Address: Yeni Çarşı Caddesi No 54, Galatasaray
Tel: 212-252-8099

(photo by Ansel Mullins)

Turkish cuisine, like Turkey itself, channels cultural currents coming in from every direction, resulting in the delicious culinary chaos that is Istanbul. Turks, Greeks, Arabs, Persians and countless others have passed through here, leaving an indelible stamp on the cuisine. Historians speak of the “layered” nature of the city; we like to think of Istanbul as a stew.

Our walks lead visitors on an eating binge through Istanbul’s lesser seen historic side streets and the authentic markets of the city, taking in countless hard-to-find culinary gems and, in between meals, a couple of untouristed monuments.

The walks are designed for small groups and usually last half a day. Please contact us at istanbuleats@gmail.com for more details and rates.

(Editor’s Note: we first ran this roundup last summer, but we’re bringing it back for those who may have not found it in our archive.)

The mojito may go the way of the grasshopper and other forgotten cocktails, but a cold beer accompanied by a panoramic view of the waters and hills of Istanbul will never go out of style. Though the guidebooks may steer you elsewhere, we’ve compiled a short list of lesser-known but equally rewarding spots to have a drink while keeping an eye on the city.

Dersaadet
Under most circumstances, we wouldn’t recommend drinking under a bridge, but Dersaadet offers spectacular views of the Old City from its perch under the Galata Bridge, right at the junction of the Golden Horn and the Bosphorus. Here we like to blow the froth off of a few while fisherman above reel in little fish right past our table.
Address: First café on the northeast (Karaköy side) side of the Galata Bridge, Karaköy
Telephone: 212-292-7001

Buyuk Londra Oteli
This quirky, cult classic hotel is a great place to swill all year-round. With its eclectic clientele, you might be elbow to elbow with a video artist from Berlin or a Macedonian diplomat. The low-key terrace bar is a perfect spot for a sundowner, without paying the premium for the Golden Horn views.
Address: Mesrutiyet Caddesi. No: 117, Tepebaşı
Telephone: 212-245-0670

Çok Çok
The street side tables of this funky Beyoglu Thai restaurant benefit from a perfect position for sunsets over the Golden Horn. We are not sure what they put in those big blue cocktails they serve, but it certainly does the trick while soaking in the late afternoon sun.
Address: Meşrutiyet Ave. No:51 Tepebaşı
Telephone: +90 212 292 64 96
website: www.cokcok.com.tr

Asma Altı Café Bar
One of our favorite pit stops in Beyoglu’s fish market, Asma Altı’s outdoor tables offer a window onto the bustling, if rough and tumble, social life of the Balık Pazar. From here, watch as butchers feeds scrap meat to seagulls, old ladies haggle with the fruit vendor for a kilo of cherries, the lottery man hocks a chance and a steady stream of transvestites sashay by.
Address: Kalyoncu Kulluk Caddesi 13/a, Beyoglu
Telephone: 0537-407-5877

Banyan
Despite the décor inspired by Miami Vice and the tony Ortaköy address, Banyan is a surprisingly mellow place to have a drink and take it all in. The bar itself seems to hang over the Bosphorus, offering unmatched views up and down the strait, from Ortaköy all the way down to the Old City. A cocktail will set you back $15-20, so nurse it while you memorize the priceless view.
Address: Muallim Naci Cad. Salhane Sk. No:3 (beside the Ortaköy İskelesi), Ortaköy
Telephone: 212-259-9060
Website: www.banyanrestaurant.com

Zeyrekhane
The open terrace at Zeyrekhane is a great spot to get up close and personal with the Byzantine brickwork of the monastery-cum-Mosque of Zeyrek. Overlooking the Golden Horn, the sublime Suleymaniye Mosque and across to Galata and Istanbul’s historic peninsula in the distance, this unusual Old City locale offers some very rewarding vistas. Though frequented by large tour groups, there’s plenty of room for everyone on the huge terrace.
Address: Sinanağa Mahallesi İbadethane Arkası Sokak No: 10, Zeyrek-Fatih
Telephone: 212-532-2778

Cihangir Steps
Though self-catering in public places is not exactly encouraged in Istanbul, it is not forbidden either. Casual drinkers of all ages prefer two outdoor spots in the Cihangir neighborhood for their awe-inspiring views of the Bosphorus and the monuments of the Old City and for their peaceful surroundings – all for the price of the package goods and a newspaper to sit on.
Address: Batarya Sokak (stairs next to building #1) & Iliyas Celebi Sokak (next to the Cihangir Mosque)

“On Sundays, we have a staff of twenty-five. People drive in from Istanbul just for breakfast,” said the owner of Mavi Boncuk, a breakfast garden-cum-guesthouse located in the idyllic village of Cumalikizik near Bursa. The focal point of Mavi Boncuk may be the quaint little stone and timber village houses where guests can stay, but all of the action takes place in the sprawling multi-tiered garden where breakfast is served. On one recent Saturday night, after the staff had all left, we fell into a deep sleep to the soft splat of mulberries falling from the trees in the garden and the anticipation of what would be a major breakfast event.

The next morning, before breakfast, a quick stroll around the narrow stone-paved alleys of the village offered a sneak preview of what our breakfast held in store. Around one corner, a spry old woman in Anatolian camouflage – baggy pants, shirt, headscarf of three different floral prints – beckoned us into the courtyard of her home to show us what she was up to. A wide pan of blackberry au jus was bubbling over a fire of twigs. “I gather the blackberries and raspberries with my husband,” she jerked a thumb in her husband’s direction without looking at him, “I make the jams, jar it and sell it. My daughter-in-law lives right upstairs but she does nothing!”

Her husband took us out to the garden to sample ripe blackberries and divine raspberries. As we picked and ate at will, he fielded a telephone call about the availability of river trout. Yes, he could source them, no problem. These villagers are clearly in the business of food.

Just down the way, under a jutting bay window overhang painted pastel blue, a fat lady sat in front of a table filled with bags of tarhana, dehydrated soup powder of wheat and yogurt, brown eggs, jars of deeply hued chestnut flower honey and bags of erişte, a sort of Anatolian noodle. Following a stream that ran right down the middle of the stony path, we found another old lady with jars of bright red tomato and pepper paste. “It’s spicy, son,” she said as we walked by, “Spicy.” Around another corner we found a young lady watching over a table of long spirally loaves looking like a giant croissant, alongside hearty, dark wheels of bread dusted in flour.

Then the narrow street opened all at once onto a wide plaza where much of the same foodstuff was for sale in great abundance. At the center of the plaza sat a beautiful big red tractor flanked by two boisterous old farmers selling blackberries and raspberries at sinfully low prices. It seemed everyone in this quaint little village was selling something delicious and they all looked happy and well fed. Wandering around the village, tasting some of this and buying a jar of that, we felt like a certain character in the children’s book Charlotte’s Web delighting in a veritable smorgasbord.

By the time we returned to the Mavi Boncuk – our appetite peaked by the morning stroll – breakfast was slipping into high gear. As promised, there were dozens of ladies in colorful headscarves darting around – one with toasted bread, another concerned only with the kaymak, two that worked the gozleme station. Tea, though, was the business of a group of nimble young men in uniform, served in big brass samovars requiring yet another staffer,  charged with doling out hot coals from a barbeque pit.

We found a table under a tree near two dogs tethered to a fence post. As they bounced around at the end of their chains, another dog slinked around the breakfast area freely but the waiter told us not to worry, “He’s blind.” And then breakfast was served.

The final count was two plates of honey, a fat roll of kaymak, three different jams, three local cheeses (“local,” meaning within walking distance), two breads, two different bowls of olives, yogurt, cucumbers and tomato wedges, a beautiful char-freckled gozleme stuffed with cheese and potatoes and, of course, a hulking, piping hot samovar filled with tea.

In previous travels in Turkey, we’ve happened into idyllic farming villages like this one only to find the breakfast table set with the same packaged foods we find in the supermarkets of Istanbul. In our experience, an entirely farm-to-table meal can be surprisingly hard to find. However, our breakfast in Cumalikizik calls for reconsideration. Whether the folks in Cumalikizik got the slowfood memo or they are just upholding an entirely logical rural supply chain, we will never know. We will, however, be looking out for more culinary destinations like this one.

Now, if we close our eyes and try to conjure the quintessential Bursa flavor, spinning meat-sicles trimmed by men in white jackets no longer come to mind. It’s the warm, sweet, runny scoop of blackberry jam served up by rough, stained fingers in a smoky courtyard that remains the strongest impression – one that will surely lure us back to Cumalikizik every season.

Address: Saldede Sok, Cumalikizik Koyu, Bursa
Telephone: 224-373-0955
Web: http://www.cumalikizik-maviboncuk.com/

Note: Cumalikizik is roughly half an hour by car from the center of Bursa. Reservations for Sunday brunch are strongly recommended. One night at Mavi Boncuk including breakfast for one person, 80 TL

(photo by Ansel Mullins)

Still, even if you’re not fasting, a traditional iftar meal at the right place remains a unique and tasty window into life during the Ramadan period. Below is a list of recommended spots for iftar in Istanbul (note – all highly recommend making reservations):

Asitane
This upscalish restaurant near the lovely Chora Church prides itself on its devotion to cooking according to ancient Ottoman recipes. For whatever reason, we’ve usually found the place uncomfortably devoid of customers during most of the year, but during Ramadan Asitane fills up with fast breakers looking for an Ottoman-style iftar. The restaurant’s garden is a particularly pleasant place to spend the evening.

Fixed menu 65 TL
Address: Kariye Camii Sokak No: 6, Edirnekapı, İstanbul
Tel: (212) 635-7997
Web: www.asitanerestaurant.com

Çiya
Although no excuse is needed to visit this well-known spot, one of our favorite restaurants in Istanbul, during Ramadan they are serving up a special iftar menu which, like the restaurant’s regular menu, will likely change daily and feature lesser
known regional specialties from around Turkey. Highly recommeneded.

Fixed menu 45 TL
Address: Guneslibahce Sokak 43, Kadiköy
Phone: 216-330-3190

Kanaat
Located in the Asian sides’ Uskudar neighborhood, this classic restaurant is an esnaf lokanta (tradesmen’s cafeteria) that has grown into something bigger and classier, with an almost overwhelming selection of very nicely made prepared dishes served from what seems like a mile-long steam table.

A la carte
Address: Selmanipak cd. No:9 Üsküdar İstanbul
Tel: (216) 341-5444

Şahin
Unlike Kanaat, Şahin has remained a humble, yet bustling, esnaf lokanta, with two small floors and a smaller menu of classic dishes prepared with a lot of love. It’s another one of our favorite places in town.

A la carte
Address: Orhan Adli Apaydın Sk. No:11/A, Beyoglu, Istanbul
Phone: (212) 244-2543

Sultanzade Sofrası
Istanbul’s Eyup neighborhood and its complex of mosques and mausoleums is a major pilgrimage site and a favorite spot for families who want to have an outdoor iftar. During Ramadan, the historic neighborhood has an almost carnival like atmosphere after sundown. Sultanzade Sofrası, a restaurant serving food from the Hatay region and overlooking Eyup’s main square, is a great perch from which to take in the neighborhood’s iftar vibe.

“Luxury” iftar menu, 35 TL
limited menu, 26 TL
Address: Kalenderhane Cad. No: 35/ 3, Eyüp-İstanbul.
Tel: (212) 615-34 55

Dear Istanbul Eats,

I booked my trip to Istanbul months ago, looking forward to trying out many of your recommendations, only to realize just before leaving that I will be arriving in the middle of Ramadan! Will everything be closed during the day? Will I be harassed in the street if I’m seen eating? Will I be able to have a beer with my lunch? Thank you for your help,
G. Avur, Las Vegas, NV

Dear reader,

Thanks for your question. It’s one that we hear a lot and one that we’ve been wondering about ourselves. There’s really no hard and fast rule about Ramadan. Much of it depends on the area where you want to go to. You can be fairly sure that most of the restaurants you want to visit in Sultanahmet, Beyoglu or along the Bosphorus will be open during the day. On the other hand, spots in more traditional/conservative areas like Fatih and Eyup will likely be closed until Iftar (the break fast meal) time. Places that serve alcohol, particularly in tourist heavy areas, are still serving it during the day, so that shouldn’t be a problem. In fact, we were at a wine bar near Taksim last night that was not only serving booze at its sidewalk café but also had a chalkboard set out that was prominently advertising “Pork Sausages.” Miniskirts and minarets, as they like to say.

Many restaurants take advantage of the Ramadan period to do renovations, so that’s another thing worth considering. Also, because this year’s holiday has come so early, it’s possible that many restaurateurs are also taking their vacation now and have closed up shop for the month. Our best advice is to call ahead and see if the place you want to eat in is open. Enjoy your trip!

(photo by Cem Topcu, Wikimedia Commons)

In Turkey, ancient Urfa (called Edessa in Roman times) is best known as the supposed birthplace of Biblical patriarch Abraham and the actual birthplace of Ibrahim Tatlises, the undisputed heavyweight champ of the Turkish Arabesque music scene. The city is also known as a major food spot, famous for its dried red peppers and its kebabs. During a visit a few years ago to Urfa – which seems to have two kebab houses for every resident – a local “historian” told us that the town was also the birthplace of yogurt and (perhaps more plausibly) çig kofte, both invented, he claimed, by Abraham himself (the Biblical figure, not the singing star).

In Istanbul, Aksaray’s atmospheric Ragip Bey Street has over the years turned into Little Edessa, lined with a number of kebab joints and spice shops selling the fiery red peppers of Urfa. Following a good recommendation, we made our way to Urfali Haci Usta, a veteran kebab house on the street that has a large dining room decorated with plastic palm trees and walls painted a shockingly bright red. We sat down at table across from a mustachioed man in a black tank top who quickly struck up a conversation with us. Did we know, he asked us, that one of Barack Obama’s grandfathers came from Urfa?

We didn’t put much stock in our new friend’s knowledge of the Obama family tree, but we did realize he might be a good guide for what and how to eat in the restaurant.

Like him, we ordered the patlican kebab, chunky discs of fatty minced meat that are interlaced on a skewer with big hunks of eggplant and which are then all grilled together. Our kebabs arrived accompanied by a mound of chewy flatbread and various small plates holding parsley, sliced onion, grilled tomato and peppers and an ezme (chopped tomato, onion and parsley) salad flavored with dried red pepper that gave it an intensely earthy and rich flavor.

Our friend, meanwhile, got to work, separating the tender eggplant flesh from its charred skin and then placing it, some meat and a bit of everything else on the table on top of one of the flatbreads, which he then deftly rolled up into a monster wrap, washed down with a big glass of ayran. We followed suit, wondering as we bit into our scrumptious durum if Urfa might in fact also be the birthplace of the burrito.

The Bible’s Abraham was known for his graciousness, his tent open on all sides to visitors. Once done with our food, our friend – in true Urfa style – invited us over for coffee, kunefe (syrupy shredded wheat wrapped around cheese) and conversation.

We left the restaurant filled with good food and good cheer, hoping to find ourselves again drifting toward this part of Aksaray very soon.

Address: Ragip Bey Sok. No: 23/B, Istanbul
Telephone: (212) 534-9962
Web: www.urfalihaciusta.com

(photo by Yigal Schleifer)

In Beyoglu, it’s easy to write off kokoreç as an olfactory nuisance. There is nothing too appetizing about a high pile of chopped sheep’s intestines in raw form sitting on the side of the flattop grill at Bambi in Taksim Square. But, like the spit-grilled kokoreç we’ve come to crave, we are “slowly turning” into this street food’s biggest boosters.

Down by Galata Tower, a pushcart’s charcoal grill sizzles and pops below a spit of tightly wrapped intestinal bounty sending a puff of smoke that seems to envelope the entire tower and its observation deck. Tourists visit this area for the panoramic views, but locals are drawn in by the smell of kokoreç. It’s a whiff of grill glory that even lures the staunch anti-kokoreç camp of which we were once hardcore members.

Nazmi usta works the wide plaza at the foot of the Galata Tower everyday from his bright metal cart, slowly roasting a long sheesh of kokoreç throughout the afternoon and evening. A customer walks up and he gets to work, sliding off a portion onto a worn wooden cutting block. Cats gather around begging for a scrap. He chops it up with tomatoes and green peppers kept beside the fire and sets it onto a griddle over the fire while the bread toasts over the coals. A blast of oregano and crushed red peppers and then it is scooped into the shell of a half (yarim) or quarter (ceyrek) loaf of bread.

For the uninitiated among us not knowing exactly what to expect, the first bite of kokoreç summons a wide arching of the brow, “not bad.” The crispy rim of those tightly wound innards offer a smoky, crunchy counterpoint to the softer rich cuts at the center, which seem to melt right into the folds of the bread like sinfully rich butter.

“That’s the uykuluk,” said Ramazan usta of Akdeniz Kokoreç referring to the sweetbreads around which the intestines are wrapped. “Some places just use fat in the middle, but uykuluk is important for real kokoreç. And skills, of course.”

With its cultish following and vocal opposition, kokoreç is probably the most polarizing street food in town – either you eat kokoreç or you do not and you defend your position fiercely.  So we naturally expected it to be a bit more challenging – like a novel by James Joyce. But after taking the plunge and happily sampling many a kokoreç ceyrek around town, we found eating kokoreç to be surprisingly simple – more like a Dan Brown paperback. Having joined the kokoreç eating camp, it is now our joy to proselytize.  Below find the kokoreç trifecta of Galata.

Nazmi Usta
Every afternoon and evening at the Galata Tower
No phone

Akdeniz Kokoreç
Address: Galipdede Caddesi 21, Galata
Telephone: (212) 251-2237

Gala Kokoreç
Addresss: Galipdede Caddesi 111, Galata
Telephone: (212) 249-8407

(photo by Yigal Schleifer)