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Jan 10
Reviews (Eats)
Hayvore: Lost and Found

In the Laz language, “si sore” means, “where are you?” At least twice a week for past few years, our answer to that question at lunchtime would be, “We are at Pera Sisore.” This little restaurant in the Asmalımescit area became one of our go-to lunch spots by serving some of the best Black Sea food around town. But after a disagreement, the two partners of the restaurant went their separate ways and the quality at Pera Sisore, sadly, took a turn for the worse.

We were feeling a bit lost for a period, not knowing where to go for a quick, honest lunch of hearty Laz fare. The Black Sea area is Turkey’s culinary misfit – it’s not really about kebabs or mezes. If anything, the food there seems to have been mysteriously transplanted from the American Deep South. We’re talking corn bread, collard greens and smoky bean stews. It’s simple, filling, down-home food and Sisore was a great – and affordable – spot to get acquainted with it. We’ve had decent meals there since the split, but it was clear we needed to find a new spot to get a quality fix of Black Sea food.

Then we got a call from Hızır Bey, the shaggy-haired owner who left Pera Sisore, taking with him the kitchen’s A team, including the feisty old lady who prepares the Black Sea specialty dishes and the man working the pide oven. This new venture, called Hayvore, is another Laz word, meaning, “I am here.” After a quick sampling of the dishes we recognized from Pera Sisore – chickpeas in a glowing red gravy, meaty stuffed chard leaves, large hunks of cornbread and Black Sea sardines lightly fried – we knew we’d be coming here regularly.

Address: Turnacıbaşı Sokak 4, Beyoğlu
Telephone: 212-245-7501

(photo by Ansel Mullins)

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8 Responses to “ Hayvore: Lost and Found ”
  1. Oh, man…once again, you’ve got me checking airfares from Boston. I love your postings. Thanks so much.

  2. I’m really intrigued by this place. Do you mind listing their hours? I don’t know if I will have time for lunch there but will definitely like to go there for dinner. So I would like to know how late they open!

    BTW really enjoy your blog very much! Going to Istanbul for the first time in May for 5 days and I can’t wait to try some of the places you reviewed here. So much better than all the guidebooks!

  3. After 3 times with best food, I will go there totday again :-))

  4. yes, Sisore sadly did not live up to expectations that previous posts would have supported. I went yesterday and arrived just before a tour group of 12 and then an additonal entire rugby team sporting Emirates sponsorship. No anchovy pilaf, no fava beans, and well… nothing extraordinary. All good things come and go… If i had read this earlier, I would have liked to have tried Hayvore.

  5. hepinize canii gönülden teşekkürler ederim biz sizler için varız

  6. I don’t normally like going to the same restaurant twice when I’m on vacation, but it was just too good to pass up!! I


  8. Took our Rize-born anne there the other day and all of us enjoyed our meal greatly — for me, the sarma were the knockout blow (the sutlac was fantastic as well).

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