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Posts Tagged ‘ specialty foods ’

Aug 19
Friday

Öz Develi Etli Pide Salonu: From the Wrong Side of the Tracks

Filed under Reviews (Eats)


Tarlabaşı
: These days, this run-down neighborhood in the rapidly gentrifying Beyoğlu district is the focus of a tug of war between preservationists and developers, with an impoverished population caught in the middle. While some cast the place as nothing more than a den of thieves, junkies, prostitutes and terrorists, many people who really know Tarlabaşı have experienced the vivid juxtaposition of village life in an ultra-urban setting that is the brutal charm of the place. Nelson Algren could have been talking about Tarlabaşı in his epic ode to the slums when he compared Chicago to a woman with a broken nose: “You may find lovelier lovelies but never a lovely so real.”

In almost a decade of living in or near this neighborhood we’ve come to appreciate its blemished beauty, but, as much as we’d tried, we had never managed to find a restaurant worth mentioning.

Then came a tip from a reader promising great pide just off of Ömer Hayyam Caddesi on the Tarlabaşı market street, Kurdela Sokak. Continue…


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Govinda’s Vejeteryan Evi: Veg Out
4 responses - Posted 07.25.11
(Editor's Note: Unfortunately, this restaurant is now closed.) Step out of the dingy stairwell of the Rumeli Han and into Govinda’s Vejeteryan Evi and you will feel as if you’ve crossed a cosmic divide. The warm and cozy room has café tables, pillowed floor seating, walls covered with a friendly looking ...continue
Lagmania: Eating with the Uighurs of Zeytinburnu
5 responses - Posted 07.11.11
(Editor’s Note: In almost a decade of intrepid eating in Istanbul, we still miss the immigrant community restaurants we know from the American big cities where language barriers and foreign customs make a lunch into a real adventure. Istanbul has foreign communities and it has foreign restaurants but the two ...continue
Istanbul Eats on the Road: Putting the “Pit” Back into Pit Stop
1 response - Posted 07.01.11
When traveling by bus in Turkey, we tend to get anxious as the dinner hour approaches. As the bus downshifts, through the mesh shades we see a gleaming rest area/cafeteria/gas station/carwash facility specifically constructed for cross-country bus traffic. We feel trapped, robbed of the chance to eat at a local ...continue
Ehli Kebap: Slurper’s Delight
no responses - Posted 06.27.11
Southeastern Turkey’s culinary mecca of Gaziantep is best known for its baklava and kebabs. But lately we’ve been thinking that it's soup that may actually be the city’s real crowning glory. Not just any old soup, mind you, but beyran çorbası, a stupendously delicious lamb-based broth that is usually slurped ...continue
Istanbul Eats on the Road: The Magic Meat of Keşan
2 responses - Posted 06.20.11
Editor’s note: This guest post comes courtesy of Salih Seçkin Sevinç, author of the great Turkish-language food blog Harbi Yiyorum (loosely translated as “Eating, For Real”). On my last two journeys to the Gallipoli region, I made sure to make a stop along the way for satır et, an awesome dish ...continue
Özkonak: The Real Pudding Shop
no responses - Posted 04.25.11
(Editor's Note: This review originally appeared on June 12, 2009.) Regulars at Özkonak, a well-loved fixture in Cihangir’s ever-changing restaurant scene, must cluck in disapproval at the sight of a new generation of customers who walk right past the pudding display at the front and head for the steam table and ...continue
Istanbul’s Top 5 Beaneries – #1: Hanımeli
no responses - Posted 04.23.11
1028th street in the already far-flung district of Gaziosmanpaşa might sound like a long distance to travel for a plate of beans. There are plenty of perfectly good beans to be eaten in less remote locations. But we’ve tried all of the big-name beans in this city, from Çamlıca to ...continue
Istanbul’s Top 5 Beaneries – #2: Hüsrev
no responses - Posted 04.22.11
(Editor's Note: This week we are celebrating the white bean, that humble legume that reaches levels of incredible complexity and flavor when in the hands of Turkish cooks. Until we visited some of Istanbul’s shrines to the baked bean, we generally regarded the dish as something eaten out of a can ...continue
Istanbul’s Top 5 Beaneries – #5: Erzincanlı Ali Baba
no responses - Posted 04.18.11
(Editor's Note: This week we are celebrating the white bean, that humble legume that reaches levels of incredible complexity and flavor when in the hands of Turkish cooks. Until we visited some of Istanbul’s shrines to the baked bean, we generally regarded the dish as something eaten out of a can ...continue
Since You Asked: Springtime Specialties?
no responses - Posted 04.08.11
Dear Istanbul Eats, I've heard that springtime finds some of Istanbul's restaurants with unique seasonal items on their menu. I know the weather hasn't quite turned yet, but when spring does come, I don't want to miss out on any of those dishes. Do you have some suggestions on what to ...continue

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