Monday

Huseyin’s Çiğ Köfte Cart: Seriously Handmade

Hands stained red by pepper paste is an occupational hazard of the wandering çiğ köfte man. “Machine-made doesn’t look like this,” said Huseyin usta with the intensity of a misunderstood artist, thrusting up a freshly formed lump of çiğ köfte. Just as the çiğ köfte’s red pepper left its mark on Huseyin’s hands, the texture of his hands were equally present across the rippled surface of the çiğ köfte.

Though taking its name from the raw meat appetizer served in kebab houses, Huseyin’s cig kofte is a bulgur-based vegetarian creation. Aside from the crisp lettuce wrap, it is totally cooked, earning it the nickname “yalanci,” or “liar’s” çiğ köfte.

Everyday, for the past 32 years, the no-nonsense Huseyin has worked his secret mixture of bulgur, red pepper paste, parsley, onions and spices into moist little logs, tucking them away in his pushcart alongside lettuce, parsley and lavaş. Continue…