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Sep 09
Farewell, Pando: Istanbul Loses a Legend, and Part of Its Soul

Pando and his wife, Yuanna, in his now-shuttered kaymak shop, photo by Ansel Mullins

Last week we had our last meal at the iconic Beşiktaş kaymak shop Pando. The framed news clippings were all boxed up; the marble-topped tables that lined the blue and white walls of the tiny place were in the storage space of a friend somewhere in the neighborhood. All that was left was a space heater, soon to be taken away.

Even still, Pando and his family were gathered there together, presumably with nowhere else to be. We sat out front at the last remaining table with Pando and his wife, Yuanna. Pando shuffled across the street through a swarm of people waiting in line outside of Karadeniz Pide ve Döner. He nodded to Asim Usta, who sent over a döner sandwich and a cup of ayran. Takeout, Pando’s last offering.

Read the rest of this article at Culinary Backstreets.

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