(Editor’s Note: we first ran this roundup last summer, but we’re bringing it back for those who may have not found it in our archive.)

The mojito may go the way of the grasshopper and other forgotten cocktails, but a cold beer accompanied by a panoramic view of the waters and hills of Istanbul will never go out of style. Though the guidebooks may steer you elsewhere, we’ve compiled a short list of lesser-known but equally rewarding spots to have a drink while keeping an eye on the city.

Dersaadet
Under most circumstances, we wouldn’t recommend drinking under a bridge, but Dersaadet offers spectacular views of the Old City from its perch under the Galata Bridge, right at the junction of the Golden Horn and the Bosphorus. Here we like to blow the froth off of a few while fisherman above reel in little fish right past our table.
Address: First café on the northeast (Karaköy side) side of the Galata Bridge, Karaköy
Telephone: 212-292-7001

Buyuk Londra Oteli
This quirky, cult classic hotel is a great place to swill all year-round. With its eclectic clientele, you might be elbow to elbow with a video artist from Berlin or a Macedonian diplomat. The low-key terrace bar is a perfect spot for a sundowner, without paying the premium for the Golden Horn views.
Address: Mesrutiyet Caddesi. No: 117, Tepebaşı
Telephone: 212-245-0670

Çok Çok
The street side tables of this funky Beyoglu Thai restaurant benefit from a perfect position for sunsets over the Golden Horn. We are not sure what they put in those big blue cocktails they serve, but it certainly does the trick while soaking in the late afternoon sun.
Address: Meşrutiyet Ave. No:51 Tepebaşı
Telephone: +90 212 292 64 96
website: www.cokcok.com.tr

Asma Altı Café Bar
One of our favorite pit stops in Beyoglu’s fish market, Asma Altı’s outdoor tables offer a window onto the bustling, if rough and tumble, social life of the Balık Pazar. From here, watch as butchers feeds scrap meat to seagulls, old ladies haggle with the fruit vendor for a kilo of cherries, the lottery man hocks a chance and a steady stream of transvestites sashay by.
Address: Kalyoncu Kulluk Caddesi 13/a, Beyoglu
Telephone: 0537-407-5877

Banyan
Despite the décor inspired by Miami Vice and the tony Ortaköy address, Banyan is a surprisingly mellow place to have a drink and take it all in. The bar itself seems to hang over the Bosphorus, offering unmatched views up and down the strait, from Ortaköy all the way down to the Old City. A cocktail will set you back $15-20, so nurse it while you memorize the priceless view.
Address: Muallim Naci Cad. Salhane Sk. No:3 (beside the Ortaköy İskelesi), Ortaköy
Telephone: 212-259-9060
Website: www.banyanrestaurant.com

Zeyrekhane
The open terrace at Zeyrekhane is a great spot to get up close and personal with the Byzantine brickwork of the monastery-cum-Mosque of Zeyrek. Overlooking the Golden Horn, the sublime Suleymaniye Mosque and across to Galata and Istanbul’s historic peninsula in the distance, this unusual Old City locale offers some very rewarding vistas. Though frequented by large tour groups, there’s plenty of room for everyone on the huge terrace.
Address: Sinanağa Mahallesi İbadethane Arkası Sokak No: 10, Zeyrek-Fatih
Telephone: 212-532-2778

Cihangir Steps
Though self-catering in public places is not exactly encouraged in Istanbul, it is not forbidden either. Casual drinkers of all ages prefer two outdoor spots in the Cihangir neighborhood for their awe-inspiring views of the Bosphorus and the monuments of the Old City and for their peaceful surroundings – all for the price of the package goods and a newspaper to sit on.
Address: Batarya Sokak (stairs next to building #1) & Iliyas Celebi Sokak (next to the Cihangir Mosque)

Although it’s been a staple food for many civilizations for over 2,000 years, the potato has largely been relegated to the role of side dish in most modern culinary settings. However, in Istanbul’s Bosphorus-side village of Ortakoy, the humble potato takes center stage for locals and tourists alike as one of the city’s most beloved street foods.

Known in Turkish as “kumpir”, think of this Istanbul street food icon as the baked potato on steroids –a motley mix of flavors piled high into an inexpensive meal roughly the size of a small child’s head.

Kumpir stands are found all over the city but are impossible to avoid in Ortakoy, where there are probably more than a dozen kumpir stands in the immediate vicinity around the famous Ortakoy Mosque and at least eight of them sit side by side on a street appropriately known as “Kumpir Sokak” (Baked Potato Street).

We recently visited the area on a Sunday to take advantage of the mild November weather and do a little shopping at the outdoor bazaar that fills the narrow streets around Ortakoy Mosque. After working up an appetite and running short of lira, Kumpir Sokak seemed to be just the place to relax, tame the hunger and still have money for a cab ride home afterward.

A few minutes of observation revealed “Maya Kumpir” to be the most popular amongst the locals, so we strolled over to the counter where spud master Muhettin greeted us with a warm smile.

We ordered our potato and gazed over the mind-boggling myriad of available toppings under the glass-enclosed case. As Muhettin split the potato down the middle and began mixing in a small amount of butter and kasar cheese, we started pointing out our selection of toppings to be added next. Among the options were hotdog slices, corn, peas, vegetable salad, pickles, pickled beets, green and black olives, yogurt, and even couscous kisir, a couscous-like bulgur dish. There were more choices, but we were a little overwhelmed at this point and went with about five or six different selections, along with a spicy red-pepper sauce and some mayo to top it all off, effectively doubling the size of the already ample spud.

The potato was perfectly cooked, soft and moist throughout, and the variety of flavors piled on top made for an interesting combination of tastes and textures. We’re pretty sure at least a few of the plastic spoonfuls didn’t contain any potato at all.

Since there are, mathematically speaking, thousands of possible combinations, we’ll probably try it again and be a bit more selective of our choices. The peas, in our opinion, were just weird in that setting. Not that the hot dog slices were any less weird, mind you…

There are probably few places in Istanbul where one can go and have a full meal for less than 10YTL, while dining seaside, under the shade of one of the most stunning mosques in the world, and admire the sprawling Asian coastline across the water at the same time. And, though the seating is first-come first served and consists of park benches and stone steps, the show-stopping potato and it’s supporting cast of toppings make the kumpir an experience to behold.

“Kumpir Sokak” is located on the main pedestrian street leading to Ortakoy Mosque and is hard to miss. Just look for all of the stands lined side by side. “Maya Kumpir” is No. 5.

(photo by Jason D. Jones)