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Features - Category Archive

Apr 22
Friday

Istanbul’s Top 5 Beaneries – #2: Hüsrev

Filed under Features, Reviews (Eats)


(Editor’s Note: This week we are celebrating the white bean, that humble legume that reaches levels of incredible complexity and flavor when in the hands of Turkish cooks. Until we visited some of Istanbul’s shrines to the baked bean, we generally regarded the dish as something eaten out of a can beside railroad tracks. But Turkey takes this humble food, known as “kuru fasulye,” seriously; that means chefs in tall toques carefully ladling out golden beans in a rich red gravy onto monogrammed flatware, served by waiters wearing bowties and vests. Even in the least formal of Istanbul’s beaneries, the guy manning the pot has the air of a high priest knowing that his incantations alone conjure something unusually delicious out of a simple bean. This is no hobo fare. This week, to celebrate the bean, we are counting down our five favorite places in Istanbul to get kuru fasulye.)

A severe man in a monogrammed blazer and slacks stands at the door of Hüsrev, greeting patrons with a nod and an open-palmed, sweeping gesture toward the dining room. Heels click across the polished marble floor as important men and women walk in and check their coats without pausing from their telephone conversations. Eavesdrop and you’ll probably overhear the finishing touches on a deal to build a Turkish spacecraft or the purchase of one of the Bosphorus bridges.

It’s easy to get caught up in the charged atmosphere of Hüsrev – overstuffed high-roller booths line the walls that lead out to a vast atrium where everyone appears in their prime and dressed for it – enough to make you forget that everyone has just ordered nothing more than a bowl of beans accompanied by a salty yogurt drink. But that is what’s so pleasurable about Hüsrev: it’s a familiar plot with an unusual Turkish twist. From Hong Kong to Houston, a high-powered business lunch is propelled by a big steak and stiff drinks, but not in Türkiye. Here, deals are sealed over beans. Continue…

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All entries filed under Features


Istanbul’s Top 5 Beaneries – #3: Fasuli
no responses - Posted 04.20.11
(Editor's Note: This week we are celebrating the white bean, that humble legume that reaches levels of incredible complexity and flavor when in the hands of Turkish cooks. Until we visited some of Istanbul’s shrines to the baked bean, we generally regarded the dish as something eaten out of a can ...continue
Istanbul’s Top 5 Beaneries – #4: Çömlek
no responses - Posted 04.19.11
(Editor's Note: This week we are celebrating the white bean, that humble legume that reaches levels of incredible complexity and flavor when in the hands of Turkish cooks. Until we visited some of Istanbul’s shrines to the baked bean, we generally regarded the dish as something eaten out of a can ...continue
Istanbul’s Top 5 Beaneries – #5: Erzincanlı Ali Baba
no responses - Posted 04.18.11
(Editor's Note: This week we are celebrating the white bean, that humble legume that reaches levels of incredible complexity and flavor when in the hands of Turkish cooks. Until we visited some of Istanbul’s shrines to the baked bean, we generally regarded the dish as something eaten out of a can ...continue
Istanbul’s Top 5 Lahmacun Makers: #2 & #1 – The Doughboys of Kadıköy
8 responses - Posted 03.25.11
(Editor’s Note: A recent article about a spat between Turkey and Greek Cyprus over who owns the rights to claim lahmacun as their own got us thinking about those minced-meat covered discs of dough and how, when done right, they really are something worth fighting over. So, prompted by the Turkish-Cypriot ...continue
Istanbul’s Top 5 Lahmacun Makers – #3: Fıstık Kebap
no responses - Posted 03.23.11
(Editor’s Note: A recent article about a spat between Turkey and Greek Cyprus over who owns the rights to claim lahmacun as their own got us thinking about those minced-meat covered discs of dough and how, when done right, they really are something worth fighting over. So, prompted by the Turkish-Cypriot ...continue
Istanbul’s Top 5 Lahmacun Makers – #4: Öz Kilis
1 response - Posted 03.22.11
(Editor's Note: A recent article about a spat between Turkey and Greek Cyprus over who owns the rights to claim lahmacun as their own got us thinking about those minced-meat covered discs of dough and how, when done right, they really are something worth fighting over. So, prompted by the Turkish-Cypriot ...continue
Istanbul’s Top 5 Lahmacun Makers: #5 – İsmail Kebapçısı
no responses - Posted 03.21.11
(Editor's Note: A recent article about a spat between Turkey and Greek Cyprus over who owns the rights to claim lahmacun as their own got us thinking about those minced-meat covered discs of dough and how, when done right, they really are something worth fighting over. So, prompted by the ...continue
The Bazaar Bag: Just Tote It
4 responses - Posted 02.16.11
One of the pleasures of living in Istanbul is to settle into a rhythm of shopping in the city’s various weekly produce bazaars. At our local bazaar, we watch the seasons change according to the produce sold from little stands that crowd the side-streets. It is a riot of color ...continue
Best Bites of 2010: Our Take
1 response - Posted 01.03.11
(Editor's Note: Although the new year is already upon us, we had so many memorable Istanbul dining experiences in 2010 that we wanted to take one last look at the past year's culinary highlights. So, before we get to the work of further exploring Istanbul in 2011, here's our top ...continue
Best Bites of 2010: Hamsi by the Haliç
no responses - Posted 12.31.10
(Editor’s Note: As 2010 heads to an end, we are looking back at our “Best Bites” of the year and are asking our readers to do the same and share their best Istanbul eating moments with us. This submission comes from Istanbul denizen Jennifer Hattam.) In my mind, it's always chilly ...continue

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