In the back of Osman’s truck, with the winter sun reflecting off of the Golden Horn just 20 feet from the hitch, the subject of discussion on a recent afternoon was freedom. “Commerce has ruined the free spaces, the nature within this city,” said Osman from behind the counter, located in the back of the covered truck’s cargo area, now converted into a cozy café, with low tables and padded benches. “There’s no pleasure in it!” added Mehmet, whose role here seemed to fall between maitre d’ and mascot. A young man speaking beyond his years, he must have grown up hearing stories of bygone Istanbul when there were woods, shorelines and historic ruins teeming with free spirits and enterprise of all sorts. He stood at the truck’s gate wearing a bright yellow sweater and loudly ordered us a tea from Osman when we stepped into the truck. He swigged at a fat brown bottle of Efes and spoke of this place as his own though.

“At least we are free down here,” he said.

Shanty businesses, like Osman’s, used to crowd the shorelines of Istanbul. Many of the celebrated fish restaurants from Arnavutkoy up to Tarabya started as floating pirate restaurants grilling up the day’s catch rent-free. Then the municipality banned such activity, and these fishermen reluctantly joined society, shifting to land-based businesses.

But down in Karakoy, on that lonely stretch west of the Galata Bridge, the spirit of freedom lives on unhindered in Osman’s truck. “It’s not easy to come down here and tangle with a man’s business,” said Osman, explaining how his business operates. His roots in that very spot go back three generations. His grandfather and father spent their working lives piloting the rough and lovely water taxis that run between here and Eminonu. Quite naturally, the small dock and its environs came to feel like an extension of the family’s living room. But to us, Osman’s truck feels just like the little bar in the finished basement of a beloved uncle – a fully stocked clubhouse.

Most of the time Osman slings cay to the boat captains and beers to Mehmet and his ilk. On one recent afternoon a teenager sat quietly on one of the upholstered benches at the mouth of the truck taking a break from his job at a paint shop around the corner. No cay, no beer. He didn’t pick up the deck of cards on the table nor did he chat. He just sat there and soaked in the afternoon sun for twenty minutes and left without a word. Freedom!

In the summertime, after some renovations are complete on the interior, Osman says anything is possible. He’ll exercise his right to grill fish and serve raki to anyone interested. He’s open to the idea of special events and thinks that there might be film crews coming to film something.

He pooh-poohed the thought of the rumored Galata Port project or other development endeavors that threaten to privatize this area, but didn’t doubt what some people will do for money. “In Istanbul, anything’s possible,” he said.

How true, we thought. In Istanbul, even a cup of tea in the back of a rogue tea truck with a priceless view is still possible.

Address: Golden Horn water taxi dock to Eminonu, Karakoy
No phone

(photo by Ansel Mullins)

(Editor’s Note: This post is part of our ongoing “wine chats” with sommelier and oenophile Serdar Kombe. Today he talks about a Turkish sparkling wine that’s actually worth talking about.)

1. A wine expert whose opinion we trust told us that “Turkish bubblies are positively undrinkable!!!” Is that the case? Is Turkey’s terroir not suited for sparkling wines?
Actually making good sparkling wine is related with making good white wine. Turkish wineries are improving their white wine making skills, but there is more to be done. Anyway, sparkling wines have been produced for approximately 40 years in Turkey. Mainly, local grape varieties are being used for the blend and mainly the charmat method [whereby the second fermentation takes place in large vats, rather than in the bottle] is being using for making sparkling wines, althoug this method has not been adapted properly. Whichever winery is making sparkling wine, their first purpose is to make wine, rather than dedicating themselve to making sparkling wine, which always stays in the shadow of still wines. I believe that Turkish wineries are not properly concentrating on making and selling sparkling wine. Another problem is that Turkish people think that it is for celebrations only. They only drink sparkling wine when they are celebrating anniversaries, birthdays etc.

2. That said, you’ve found a new Turkish bubbly that you like. What can you tell us about this one?
Yaşasın sparkling wine is different than the other sparkling wines produced in Turkey, in terms of the technique used to make it, quality, labor etc. They are really focusing on making the best one in Turkey! The producer in question is following Methode Champenoise rules, which is used for making Champagne in the Champagne region of France. The process of making Champagne is quite complicated and you need to be skillful and patient about it. Yaşasın is not as toasty, creamy, yeasty as Champagne. It is a more fruit-driven sparkling wine, but the bubbles are consistent and go up with such a beautiful harmony. It’s refreshing, crisp, zesty, with stone and fruit aromas on the palate.

3. What can you tell us about the winery that produced this bubbly?
The winery, Vinkara, is very young. They started releasing their first commercial wine just 3 years ago. They have a very modern winery that focuses mainly on the native to Turkey “Kalecik Karası” grape, grown in Anatolian vineyards near Ankara. The wines are produced under the control of Marco Manciero, an Italian wine consultant. One of the company’s goals is to take the relatively unknown “Kalecik Karası” grape to a better place.

4. Do you think the arrival of this particular bubbly could signal the arrival of more quality Turkish bubblies?
Absolutely. After the successful introduction of Yaşasın and the positive consumer feed-back, other wine producers have realised that the market is hungry for sparkling wines. We can say that the sparkling wine market of Turkey will be going through a big change within the next 5 years.

5. On what occasions would you drink this bubbly?
I would like to drink it on every occasion! Sparkling wines are known as a celebration drink, but in my opinion it is the best aperatif drink before the start of a meal. Also, it would be a great marriage with shellfish, served in a good seafood restaurant by the sea….

(Editor’s Note: This post is part of our ongoing “wine talks” with sommelier and oenophile Serdar Kombe. Today he looks at a favorite Turkish rosé.)

1. Before we talk about this specific wine, tell us a bit about rosé in general: When do you drink it? Neither red nor white – is it nothing more than the spork of wines?
Rosé wines are generally sneered at by wine connoisseurs, but many people find their crispness and lightness very refreshing in hot weather, leading to them being often referred to as summer wines. Styles vary widely, but in general, a rosé wine is much simpler than a true heavyweight white or red wine – even if made from the same grapes. European rosé wines are generally dry, while those from the United States tend to be sweeter. Sometimes, this distinction is highlighted by referring to sweet rosé wines as “blush” wines.

Rosé wines are actually some of the most versatile, food-friendly wines around. They have had an image problem to overcome, since many consumers mistake rosé wines to be overly sweet and in the category of “starter wines.”

2. Is Turkey is a good place to make rosé? What grapes are usually used to make rosé in Turkey?
Actually, Turkey has a lot of rosé potential in terms of the grapes grown here. Almost all of the best known rosé making grapes are grown in Turkey, plus we have own traditional grape varietals such as kalecik karası, çalkarası and others.

On the other hand, we are really only beginning to make good rosé wine in Turkey. Skill- and technique-wise we are still quite weak! Turkish wine producers need to look around more in order to make world-class rosé. Based on what I observed so far, they don’t have a passion for making good rosé wine!

3. In that case, what can you tell us about the Selendi Gulpembe rosé ? What caught your attention about this wine?
When I first tasted this wine, I felt as if this wine could have come from the famous Provence region of France. The wine was lively, had nice acidity and an almost orange color – it was amazing. And the 2010 release is even better quality than the 2009.

4. What can you tell us about the Selendi winery?
This winery belongs to Akın Öngör, who used to work as the general manager of Garanti, one of Turkey’s largest banks. He is big time wine lover and this winery is a retirement project of him. We should also consider the influence of the real boss of this winery, Gülin Öngör, who is Mr. Akın’s wife. They are among the kindest, loveliest and most modest couples I have ever met.

5. What would you pair this wine with?
Provencal food and dishes work very well with this lovely rosé wine. I would especially recommend meze plates which have medium acidity (tomato ezme, grilled eggplant in tomato sauce, shepard’s salad, etc.). Mozarella-style cheeses might be good pairing with it. Olive oil-based mezes could be a wonderful match as well. If you want to drink it with meat, kuzu külbastı (lamb tenderloin) could be an alternative. But I wouldn’t eat oily or fatty dishes with it.

6. Tasting notes?
Color somewhere between orange and pink. On the nose, strawberry and cherry aromas are screaming, with citrus aromas coming from behind. On the palate we taste a good combination of acidity, fruitiness and crispness.

It is the finest Turkish rosé wine I have ever tasted.

(Note: This wine can be bought for around 35 TL)

(Editor’s Note: We’ve recently been lucky enough to make the acquaintance of Serdar Kombe, one of Turkey’s leading oenophiles. These are exciting times for Turkish wine and Serdar has generously agreed to review wines for us. For today’s “wine chat,” Serdar chose to talk about the Melen Papazkarasi Reserve, a wine made in Thrace.)

1. Papazkarasi? Another one of those Turkish grapes with a hard-to-pronounce name? What can you tell us about this one?
It is a  very unique red grape variety that is grown mainly in the Marmara and Thrace regions, where it is produced in limited quantities. Production and, thus, consumption of this wine is very low. We unfortunately have not realized how rare and precious this grape is and are slowly losing this variety. The Melen winery refers to it as “The forgotten Thracian prince.” The name? It translates into “Priest’s Black” or “Black of the Priest,” roughly.

2. How does Papazkarasi compare to other Turkish red wine varietals?
First of all Turkish Greeks used to live where papazkarası is grown, in the Thrace region nears Turkey’s border with Greece and Bulgaria. Winemaking was and is an essential part of their culture, so perhaps the grapes in this region are more deeply rooted in the region’s terroir. The other grape varietals which are grown in Turkey are truer representative of the Anatolian region, whose soil is less rich than Thrace’s. In that sense, latitude, climate and terroir differences make Papazkarasi quite special. It has a personality and elegance of its own, which deserves higher recognition in the Turkish wine league.

3. Can you describe with a bit more detail how Papazkarasi compares to the Anatolian grape varieties? And, are there any western grape varietals that you would compare it to?
Boğazkere wines are quite tannic, especially if they come from Diyarbakir. Öküzgözü has an acidic personality. Kalecik karası wines remind me of simple French pinot noirs. Wines made with Papazkarasi grapes, on the other hand, have a different complexity, in terms of fruit, acid, tannins and body. If I needed to compare with international grape varietal, I would say it is closest to Sangiovese in terms of taste and nose!

4. What was it about this wine that caught your attention?
I have been drinking this wine since 2000. It is one of my value for money Turkish wines. It is also a good representative of Thracian culture and history for me. It’s also hard not to notice this distinctive wine’s amphora-shaped bottle.

5. What can you tell us about the Melen Winery?
It was established at the beginning of the 20th century, actully tracing its roots to a partnership formed between a Turk and a Greek to produce raki. They are still making wines, mostly from lesser-grown varietals such as Karasakiz, Melencik, Riesling, Gewurztraminer and others, grown in their seaside vineyards. They are not after huge volumes and sales, but concentrate on quality and on producing wine of humble origins. For me they are the Don Quixote of Turkey’s wine industry.

6. What kind of food would you pair this wine with?
Tuna tartare, çiğ börek, mantı and veal chops would be great partner with this lovely wine. As a alternative, I can easily recommend drinking it alongside local Thracian cheeses as well.

7. Tasting notes?
It’s ruby colored, dry, light-bodied and with flavor of violet, black fruit, forest berries, vanilla and oak.

On Istiklal Caddesi, we’ve watched han after han fall to a swift and merciless wave of gentrification. The courtyard that led to our favorite notary public in the Narmanli han is now off limits as the building awaits a makeover. The Circle D’Orient, home of Inci Pastanesi, seems to be going the same way. One of our favorite places for a beer, the old theater workers bar in the Atlas Pasaji, is now just a warm memory to us, an office space to others. But just when we thought the whimsy of Bohemian Beyoglu had choked on the chain stores that line Istiklal these days, we spent some time exploring the last bastion of funky Beyoglu han life, the Rumeli Han.

On a recent exploration of the Rumeli Han’s many wings we wandered past the Turkish Communist Party’s HQ, the Indian Cultural Center, a tango dance center, and, on the way in, a knit cap hat vendor that has defiantly occupied the entrance of the grand old building with towering shelves fixed right over the elaborate moldings of the central arcade. On a rainy day, this arcade is a popular place to flout the indoor smoking ban and duck in for a quick cigarette. We spotted a knot of smokers near the A Blok elevator (out of order), all in different uniforms signifying their employer on Istiklal. Apparently in the Rumeli Han, freedom, or actually something closer to mayhem, reigns.

The unruly spirit of Rumeli Han is perhaps best experienced at a music bar that we’d call a roadhouse if it weren’t on the second floor of the han’s C Blok.  It is a rambling series of large rooms forming an “L” shape. The stage sits at one end and a collection of booths on the other, with the bar at the elbow. The interior is neglected in a very pleasant way – paint flakes off the walls and collects on the floor and the old floorboards have been left to creak underfoot.

As casual as Haymatlos might appear on the front end, the backside is a serious operation. The bar has live music every night of the week and much of what’s on stage is a few beats ahead of current trends. Well-known performers of Balkan music, Rembetiko and Turkish jazz play weekly, but, more significantly, the place seems to coax unusually good performances out of no-name groups.

On our first visit to Haymatlos, we were blown away by a bawdy young singer in a red wig playing with a Balkan band. She sang a jazzy song and then started screaming like Ozzy Ozborne on the next one as an accordion honked along behind her. We danced and drank cheap beer all night shoulder to shoulder in a thick Haymatlos crowd. Here in the same swaying room were outcasts from Asmalimescit in dreadlocks and hippy pants, aging leftists, a few slick local “aksamci” and the young and moneyed Beyoglu hip – a demographic snippet of the neighborhood today. Perhaps there is no such thing as bohemian Beyoglu anymore, or maybe it is evolving into something else. Haymatlos, which means “homeless” in German, has a refreshing come-as-you-are approach to nightlife. If the Rumeli Han can only survive the neighborhood’s growing pains, this place might bridge the gap between an older bohemian Beyoglu and the new. Sadly, the cynic in us tells us to enjoy the fun here while it lasts. Haymatlos is bound to be “homeless” indeed just as the Rumeli Han will surely be another shopping mall before long.

(Note: Open every night 4PM-4AM. Happy Hour 4PM-8PM with half price drinks.10-15TL Cover charge)

Address: Istiklal Caddesi 96, Rumeli Han C Blok, 2^nd floor, Beyoglu
Telephone: (532) 676-3943

(interior photos courtesy Haymatlos. Rumeli Han photo by Ansel Mullins)

(Editor’s Note: We’ve recently been lucky enough to make the acquaintance of Serdar Kombe, one of Turkey’s leading oenophiles. These are exciting times for Turkish wine and Serdar has generously agreed to review wines for us. For today’s “wine chat,” Serdar chose to talk about the 2007 Pamukkale Anfora Shiraz.)

1. We’ve always associated Shiraz with Australian reds, but here we have a Turkish version of the wine. Is Turkey a good home for Shiraz?

In my opinion our Shiraz wines can be described as being somewhere near Australian and other new world Shiraz. They are definitely not close to French ones. Shiraz vines are grown mainly west part of Turkey and our Shiraz wines are a reflection of that terrior. They are not as rich as Australian ones where the wine making skills and vinifaciton are more advanced. If you consider how wine growing culture is growing in Turkey, then the country can be considered a good home for Shiraz, although maybe it isn’t the best place for the wine (yet).

2. If that’s the case, what caught your attention about this particular Shiraz?
Its performance is as good as Shiraz wines that cost twice as much. Value for money!! Aromas, flavors, a taste that lingers on the palette – everything is there. I can drink this wine with food or by itself, morning, afternon, weekday, weekend, anytime, really. It’s like the wild card of wines.

3. We’ve recently noticed on the shelves more wines by Pamukkale — what can you tell us about this winery?

It is a quite old winery (in Turkish terms, at least), which is established in  the 1960′s. Until the 1990’s they used to mostly make unremarkable bulk wines. After buying land in the Aegean’s Denizli- Güney region they have changed their strategy, which was influenced by the wider developments taking place in Turkish wine culture. Now all their wines are drinkable and of good value.

4. What kind of food would you pair this wine with?

This is a wine that goes well with Turkish food. I would suggest tomato-based dishes such kuru fasülye, nohut, fish buğlama and tomato-based mezes. It would also go well with seafood pastas in tomato sauce. I would not recommend eating spicy hot dishes with this lovely smooth Shiraz. Same goes for citrusy dishes, which would break the harmony of wine and food.

5. Tasting notes?

It is clear and it has a ruby color.
Nose: hint of green spices, clove, pepper, currant and forest berries. Very fine and round toasty aromas, with chocolate and cacao aromas coming from very deep.
Palate: Dried fruits of plum, raisin, cherry. Ripe red fruits that explode in your mouth, along with a taste of fresh herbs. Lovely, smooth finish which is not quite long.

The Umurbey vineyards, planted in 1993, sit 200m above sea level and five kilometers from the seaside, in Yazir village to the west of Tekirdag, in Turkey’s Thrace regoin. The clay and sandy earth there provide perfect conditions for growing Chardonnay, Semillion, Sauvignon Blanc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Syrah grapes. The grapes, picked at the end of August, are harvested by hand and carried with the utmost care to the winery.

I tried the 2007 and found it a surprisingly lively wine. Don’t be fooled by the year; this wine does not feel aged. It possesses a pleasing acidity that many New World wines lack. After a sip, note the lasting intense flavour on the palate.

I believe this wine will go very well with cold mezzes, ceviche, and other dishes with strong acidity. It can be enjoyed as a fine informal aperitif, or drunk right through dinner and with tart fruit desserts.

Tasting Notes:
Color/Appearance: bright yellow, with green highlights
Nose: lime, lemon zest, grapefruit, mango, passion fruit
Palate: Crisp acidity, fresh, medium body, long finish with character

With its aromas and finishing tastes, this wine reminds us of New World sauvignon blancs and also recalls the Spanish Albarinio grape. Furthermore, considering its price and quality, this wine is much better value that other similar Turkish wines. And, despite what you may see being done around town, please don’t drink wine like this with ice!

(Editor’s Note: We’ve recently been lucky enough to make the acquaintance of Serdar Kombe, one of Turkey’s leading oenophiles. These are exciting times for Turkish wine and Serdar has generously agreed to start a guest column for us about the subject. In his first review for us, he takes a look at a favorite classic of his.)

In my first review, I want to tell you a little bit of information and degustation notes about one of my favorite white wines: Prestige Narince, made solely out of 2008 harvest Narince grapes grown in Kavaklıdere’s Cotes d’Avanos vineyards in Kapadokya.

While Narince, a grape varietal indigenous to Turkey, is usually grown around the central Anatolian city Tokat, recently, due to the changing climate and increasing rains, as well as the pyhlloxera disease, Kavaklıdere winemakers were pushed to look for new places to grow the grape. However, I think, these seemingly negative developments enabled the Narince grapes to evolve toward a better state and earn a more marketable name.

Kavaklıdere’s Kapadokya vineyards are 950 meters above the sea level. The vineyards are located on the north-south axis. In that region, summers are hot and dry, winters cold and snowy. Thanks to the nearby Kızılırmak river, there is a microclimate around the vineyards. The soil is mostly volcanic, low or medium alkali, saltless, calcareous, and weak in terms of organic materials and nutrients. The soil cannot absorb and hold much water. All these properties actually increase the quality of the grapes, especially for white wine. In summer the vineyards are under a strong but not too hot sun. The temperature difference between the night and the day, hence the grapes can ripen with a healthy acidity. The harvest time is between 20 August and 20 October.

Kavaklıdere Narince 2008 – Tasting Notes:

The wine is kept in French oak barrels and has a deep, bright golden-yellow color.

It carries the aromas of lime, linden, orange blossoms, acacia and fume originating from the oak.

Leaves an elegant, slightly oily, acidity-alcohol balanced, medium-long ending, complex taste in the mouth.

I can recommend consuming it with olive oil-based dishes, eggplant mezze, mild cream sauce pastas, steamed fish stews, grilled salmon and other grilled sea food.

If you like Burgundy-style Chardonnays with a less oaky taste, fresh and alive acidity and a slightly creamy touch, you will like Narince 2008.
(The wine is available in wine shops throughout Istanbul and costs around 45 lira.)

(Editor’s Note: We’ve recently been lucky enough to make the acquaintance of Serdar Kombe, one of Turkey’s leading oenophiles. These are exciting times for Turkish wine and Serdar has generously agreed to start a guest column for us about the subject. Today we are running a brief primer by Serdar about the current state of the Turkish wine industry, with a review to follow tomorrow. Stay tuned.)

A little bit about me: I was born in Istanbul in 1980. I graduated from the Etiler Hotel and Tourism Anatolian Vocational School. I started my career at the Four Seasons Hotel Sultanahmet. Then I worked at Mel’s and Vogue restaurant in Istanbul. In 2008, I was transferred to Zuma restaurant, where I work as a manager and chef sommelier right now. In 2010, I took first place in the Best Sommelier of Turkey contest, organized by the Turkish Sommelier Foundation, Chaine de Rotisseurs and Wines of Turkey. Later I represented Turkey in the Best Sommelier of Europe and Best Sommelier of the World contests in France and Chile.

In my posts during the upcoming weeks, I will talk about the wines that I think you have to taste now. But before that I want to talk a little about my thoughts on what is going on in Turkey’s wine scene.

I believe that we should separate Turkish wine history into two: before 2000 and after 2000. Until 2000, under the control of the state and the hegemony of two big wineries, very low quality (bulk) wines were produced in Turkey. What counted then were the brand names of the wines, rather than their regions and grapes.

The abundant consumption and the deepest love felt for our national beverage, rakı, was another reason for the late development of wine production in Turkey.

By the end of 1990’s, private wineries brought international grape varietals to Turkey, planted them and received successful results. This development, coupled with successful promotion and advertising campaigns, increased Turks’ familiarity with wine. Sauvignon-Blanc, Chardonnay, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot grapes whetted the appetite of wine aficionados, a younger generation of wine drinkers and, most importantly, of Turkish wine producers. As a result, investments in wineries increased and the number of boutique wineries increased. Boutique wineries are still a growing trend in Turkey and are setting examples for young entrepreneurs interested in the wine business.

Even though the developments of the last decade are very heartening and exciting for Turkish winemakers, the lack of standardized laws and control mechanisms controlling the quality of winemaking, the continuation of high taxes and artificially high prices are still major problems facing the Turkish wine sector.

In addition to these issues, Turkey still lacks a sufficient number of educated, informed and balanced wine experts whom winery owners, aficionados and personnel in the food and beverage sector can trust. Without people like this, it’s difficult to create an environment where quality is the first priority, prices can come down to normal and the Turkish wine sector can converge toward European standards.

Now, enough talking and on to the drinking! Join me tomorrow for our first tasting.

(photo by Yigal Schleifer)

“Just because a man sells sahlep doesn’t make him a real sahlepci,” he offers as a warning.

“Thieves! They’re putting pulverized pasta in there, bread, whatever. I heard they even grind up animal bones and call it Avrupa sahlep. Frauds! They sell it for 7 TL per kilo. Think about that. A kilo of real sahlep, the pure stuff,” he looks over to the sacks, “costs 180 per kilo.”

“So I don’t drink sahlep just anywhere.”

He did, however, recommendation a few addresses from his client list where we could drink the real thing. We followed one of these tips over to the Asian side to compare the real thing with the street sahlep we’ve been hooked on for years.

Ali Usta
Most people harp about the ice-cream over at Moda’s Ali Usta, which is indeed worthy of a full review, but we came for Ali’s real deal, uncut sahlep.

Our taste for sahlep was acquired on the street, which is something like growing fond of Mexican food in Dushanbe, so our sahlep palette was way out of whack when we arrived at Ali Usta. We were expecting that egg noggy, extra sweet starchy liquid jolt with a cinnamon topping.  Actually we were expecting all of those flavors to be ramped up, somehow more “sahlep-y” on account of the purity levels promised to us by Cemal.

As it turns out, real sahlep is not such an exotic drink at all. There is a mild herbal hint carried by fresh milk and just a touch of cinnamon, but it bears little resemblance to the carnival of flavors we know and love from the pushcart. Ali Usta’s sahlep makes itself known in the consistency. Whereas street sahlep is a bit gluey, Ali usta’s is pure silk. Exotic as the flower from which it is extracted, sahlep is just a starch in the end and one that benefits from lots of sugary, flavorful additives.

As fine as Ali usta’s sahlep was, next time we head out to Moda we’ll have a double scoop of his pistachio ice-cream. We will save our sahlep drinking for those spontaneous moments when we see the brass sahlep samovar mounted to a rickety pushcart round the corner on a rainy day.

“Sahhhhlepppp!” the man will shout and we won’t correct him or inquire about purity levels or even wonder about the presence animal bones. For better or for worse, this is the sahlep we know and love.

Ali Usta
Address: Moda Caddesi No.264/A, Moda
Telephone: 216-414-1880

Kadem Sahlepcilik (Cemal bey, Sahlep Wholesaler)
Address: Asmaalti Cad. Kalcin Sok. Cavusbasi Han No:23 k:1 D:12, Eminonu
Tel/Fax: 212-519-0497

(photo by Yigal Schleifer)