The brothers Altu and Erol Aslan, who operate the Yeni Melek corner store on Ayhan Işık Sokak in Istanbul’s Beyoglu neighborhood, have a legitimate complaint against their next-door neighbor, Tarihi Kalkanoğlu Pilavcısı. The shop – morning, noon and night – really does reek of butter. For those unfamiliar with the preferred cooking agent of the eastern Black Sea, where the neighbor in question hails from, this isn’t the sort of bland whitish grease that comes from the Land o’ Lakes; it’s a funky yellow mass that is bused in from the villages around Trabzon in unmarked buckets like contraband. When it’s browned, a distinct stank slips through floorboards, saturating a city block. Any time spent in the environs of Kalkanoğlu will leave a scent on your sweater more telling than lipstick on the collar.
Read the rest of the review at Culinary Backstreets .