If Lades, which means “wishbone” in Turkish, provided an actual wishbone alongside the usual post-meal wet wipe and toothpick, we’d close our eyes and make a wish that we could eat their tandır, or oven-roasted baby lamb, seven days a week. These large knots of tender, fragrant meat lined with a soft cushion of fat are the sort of high-calorie lunch that we might save for a special occasion, but Lades regulars take for granted.
Lades is an old-school spot, a classic lokanta serving stews and steam-table favorites day in, day out. The condition of the monogrammed flatware, which is faded from decades of use by diners sopping up that last bit of stew with a fresh piece of white bread, is indicative of the sort of customer approval that we seek in a lunch spot.
The rest of this previously featured review can be found on CulinaryBackstreets.com, here .