It is hard to identify exactly when the forgotten neck of Istanbul between Etiler and Arnavutköy became prime real estate. Not so long ago, overgrown green space alongside the road was interrupted by the occasional car wash and low-slung shanty; it was not so much a place as a road to other places. But now it seems this road is going places of its own. A private tennis club with a swimming pool shares a parking lot with Backyard, a café and restaurant with a big grassy yard filled with lounging parents and children wallowing in that rare Istanbul commodity: grass. We had come for the grass too, but chafed at the rest of the package deal: pricey lattes, ordinary café fare and a scene that felt ill at ease despite the superfluous comfort of the place.
But on the way out, just beyond the parking lot, we spotted something that looked as out of place as Jed Clampett’s jalopy parked outside of his mansion in Beverly Hills. This was Albay Dürüm, a trailer-borne grill joint in dire need of a paint job – and, we decided, a return visit with an empty stomach.
The rest of this review can be found on CulinaryBackstreets.com, here .