Jul 29
Friday
Ramadan’s Iftar: The Break Fast of Champions
Think of Ramadan as a kind of month-long biathalon that consists of an all-day race to beat back the hunger and thirst of fasting, followed by an all-night marathon of eating and drinking in order to fortify the body for the next day’s fast. In recent years in Turkey, iftar, the traditional break fast meal that used to mostly consist of some dates and a freshly baked round of Ramadan pide, has started to become an increasingly trendy affair, with ministers, businessmen and anyone trying to make an impression hosting evermore lavish ones.
Still, even if you’re not fasting, a traditional iftar meal at the right place remains a unique and tasty window into life during the Ramadan period. Below is a list of recommended spots for iftar in Istanbul (note – all highly recommend making reservations): Continue…
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Quick Look
Recent Posts
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Five Favorite Old-School Meyhanes
no responses - Posted 05.11.12
A recent article in one of Turkey’s English-language newspapers, describing plans by Mey İçki, Turkey’s largest producer of raki, to introduce the anise-flavored liquor to Europe, left us both steamed and amused. As part of its efforts to promote the consumption of raki, it appears the company – along with an outfit called the Tourism Research Association (TURAD) – has ... continue -
And the Winner Is….
2 responses - Posted 05.03.12
We are very proud to announce that we have been voted "Best Culinary Travel Blog" in Saveur Magazine's third annual Best Food Blog Awards competition. The competition was stiff and we were honored just to be included among that group of six finalists. A victory by any one of us would have been a victory for good taste. Thank you ... continue -
Vahap Usta: The Man Who Would Be (Kokoreç) King, Pt. I
1 response - Posted 05.01.12
Vahap Usta pulled a pair of reading glasses from the inside pocket of a snug dinner jacket and sifted through a stack of newspaper clippings. Here was a full spread from a major daily paper proclaiming him the “King of Kokoreç” and another with him in his signature tuxedo and bowtie in front of his stand in the central Sirkeci ... continue -
Island — and Table — Hopping in Istanbul
1 response - Posted 04.25.12
Istanbul's Princes' Islands, a lovely archipelago just off the city's Asian shore, offer what we believe to be the best travel bargain anywhere in the world. Whenever we're in need of a vacation but can't afford the airfare, a ferry awaits to take us to the islands. For the price of just a few liras, we're transported to a small ... continue -
Beyoglu Burger Wars: Counter Offensive
8 responses - Posted 04.23.12
Six months ago we were very concerned to see one of our favorite burger joints, Mano Burger, closed down. The workers gutting the place told us there was financial trouble. Someone else said they’d opened up shop on the Asian side, in Bostanci. For six months, Mano seemed to go incognito. We were then equally puzzled a couple of weeks ago ... continue -
Hamsi for Hipsters!
no responses - Posted 04.18.12
Turns out New Yorkers are only now discovering what Turks have known for eons: that the humble anchovy is absolutely delicious (particularly when lightly coated in flour or cornmeal and fried). As an article in today's New York Times explains, anchovies -- known as "hamsi" in Turkish -- are being served in a growing number of spots in NYC, from ... continue -
Goreme Muhallebicisi: The Milkman Stayeth
3 responses - Posted 04.13.12
In the world of chicken breast pudding (a traditional Turkish dessert made with thickened milk and thin strands of poached poultry), elasticity is the quality that the confection is judged upon above all else. Tucking into a real tavuk göğsü requires full concentration, a good bit of dexterity and the proper tool. A special spoon with a flat chopping nose ... continue
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Five Favorite Old-School Meyhanes
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All entries filed under this archive
Beyoglu Authorities Turn the Tables on Outdoor Seating
3 responses - Posted 07.26.11
Late afternoon on Sofyali Sokak, the restaurant-crowded street in Beyoglu’s Asmalimescit district, is usually happy hour – two for one tequila shots, raki glasses clinking, half-liters of Efes hoisted. But today, in the aftermath of a Beyoglu-wide crackdown on outside seating that left the street bare of a single place ...continue
3 responses - Posted 07.26.11
Late afternoon on Sofyali Sokak, the restaurant-crowded street in Beyoglu’s Asmalimescit district, is usually happy hour – two for one tequila shots, raki glasses clinking, half-liters of Efes hoisted. But today, in the aftermath of a Beyoglu-wide crackdown on outside seating that left the street bare of a single place ...continue
Govinda’s Vejeteryan Evi: Veg Out
no responses - Posted 07.25.11
(Editor's Note: This restaurant's kitchen is currently closed for renovations and will reopen in September, 2011) Step out of the dingy stairwell of the Rumeli Han and into Govinda’s Vejeteryan Evi and you will feel as if you’ve crossed a cosmic divide. The warm and cozy room has café tables, pillowed ...continue
no responses - Posted 07.25.11
(Editor's Note: This restaurant's kitchen is currently closed for renovations and will reopen in September, 2011) Step out of the dingy stairwell of the Rumeli Han and into Govinda’s Vejeteryan Evi and you will feel as if you’ve crossed a cosmic divide. The warm and cozy room has café tables, pillowed ...continue
More Sultanahmet Dining Secrets
no responses - Posted 07.22.11
(Editor’s Note: This guest post was written by “Meliz,” an intrepid explorer of Sultanahmet’s culinary backstreets who would like to keep her anonymity.) The neighborhood around Sultanahmet and the Grand Bazaar introduces an interesting plot-twist into the slow-cooked Choose Your Own Adventure that is the esnaf lokanta experience. As described on ...continue
no responses - Posted 07.22.11
(Editor’s Note: This guest post was written by “Meliz,” an intrepid explorer of Sultanahmet’s culinary backstreets who would like to keep her anonymity.) The neighborhood around Sultanahmet and the Grand Bazaar introduces an interesting plot-twist into the slow-cooked Choose Your Own Adventure that is the esnaf lokanta experience. As described on ...continue
The “Baklava Bailout”
1 response - Posted 07.19.11
This one is certainly going to hurt Greek national pride: According to the Wall Street Journal, famed Athenian baklava seller Epe has not only been importing Turkish baklava for the last decade to sell in its stores, but has now had to be bailed out by its supplier from the ...continue
1 response - Posted 07.19.11
This one is certainly going to hurt Greek national pride: According to the Wall Street Journal, famed Athenian baklava seller Epe has not only been importing Turkish baklava for the last decade to sell in its stores, but has now had to be bailed out by its supplier from the ...continue
Buyukada Hi-Lo
no responses - Posted 07.15.11
(Editor's Note: Since the New York Times ran a wonderful article in last Sunday's Travel section about Buyukada, the leafy island near Istanbul, we've decided to rerun a previous post containing some suggestions on where to eat on the isle.) If it’s because of showing visitors around or simply a desire ...continue
no responses - Posted 07.15.11
(Editor's Note: Since the New York Times ran a wonderful article in last Sunday's Travel section about Buyukada, the leafy island near Istanbul, we've decided to rerun a previous post containing some suggestions on where to eat on the isle.) If it’s because of showing visitors around or simply a desire ...continue
Lagmania: Eating with the Uighurs of Zeytinburnu
2 responses - Posted 07.11.11
(Editor’s Note: In almost a decade of intrepid eating in Istanbul, we still miss the immigrant community restaurants we know from the American big cities where language barriers and foreign customs make a lunch into a real adventure. Istanbul has foreign communities and it has foreign restaurants but the two ...continue
2 responses - Posted 07.11.11
(Editor’s Note: In almost a decade of intrepid eating in Istanbul, we still miss the immigrant community restaurants we know from the American big cities where language barriers and foreign customs make a lunch into a real adventure. Istanbul has foreign communities and it has foreign restaurants but the two ...continue
Since You Asked: Eating During Ramadan?
no responses - Posted 07.08.11
(Editor's Note: With Ramadan set to start at the end of the month, we decided to rerun this timely advice column from last year.) Dear Istanbul Eats, I booked my trip to Istanbul months ago, looking forward to trying out many of your recommendations, only to realize just before leaving that I ...continue
no responses - Posted 07.08.11
(Editor's Note: With Ramadan set to start at the end of the month, we decided to rerun this timely advice column from last year.) Dear Istanbul Eats, I booked my trip to Istanbul months ago, looking forward to trying out many of your recommendations, only to realize just before leaving that I ...continue
Meşhur Unkapani IMÇ Pilavcisi: The (rice) Freaks Come Out at Night
no responses - Posted 07.06.11
One recent late night, zipping down a busy Istanbul thoroughfare in a taxi on our way home from the airport, we passed by an intriguing scene. Huddled around a brightly lit food cart was a large group of men stuffing their faces in a kind of zombie-like frenzy. It almost ...continue
no responses - Posted 07.06.11
One recent late night, zipping down a busy Istanbul thoroughfare in a taxi on our way home from the airport, we passed by an intriguing scene. Huddled around a brightly lit food cart was a large group of men stuffing their faces in a kind of zombie-like frenzy. It almost ...continue
Happy 4th, Istanbul!
no responses - Posted 07.04.11
If, like us, the 4th of July has you in a burger state-of-mind, you might want to check out our extensive coverage of Istanbul's hamburger scene, here and here for starters. continue
no responses - Posted 07.04.11
If, like us, the 4th of July has you in a burger state-of-mind, you might want to check out our extensive coverage of Istanbul's hamburger scene, here and here for starters. continue
Istanbul Eats on the Road: Putting the “Pit” Back into Pit Stop
1 response - Posted 07.01.11
When traveling by bus in Turkey, we tend to get anxious as the dinner hour approaches. As the bus downshifts, through the mesh shades we see a gleaming rest area/cafeteria/gas station/carwash facility specifically constructed for cross-country bus traffic. We feel trapped, robbed of the chance to eat at a local ...continue
1 response - Posted 07.01.11
When traveling by bus in Turkey, we tend to get anxious as the dinner hour approaches. As the bus downshifts, through the mesh shades we see a gleaming rest area/cafeteria/gas station/carwash facility specifically constructed for cross-country bus traffic. We feel trapped, robbed of the chance to eat at a local ...continue
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