Jan 31
Monday
Cigerci Lutfi: The Man with the Golden Liver
There was something jarring and disjointed about the sight of an old man sitting beside an eight-lane highway selling liver sandwiches from his perch on a concrete planter – as if a character from a traditional Ottoman shadow puppet show had wandered onto the set of the film “Bladerunner.” But this is Istanbul, a city perpetually on the make, where commerce knows no boundaries and any public space presents an opportunity. Like a hustler in a Nelson Algren novel, Lutfi usta said, “Everybody’s out for theirs and I’m going to get mine too,” as he passed a liver sandwich into the open car window of a taxi idling at the curb. Continue…
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Quick Look
Recent Posts
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Five Favorite Old-School Meyhanes
no responses - Posted 05.11.12
A recent article in one of Turkey’s English-language newspapers, describing plans by Mey İçki, Turkey’s largest producer of raki, to introduce the anise-flavored liquor to Europe, left us both steamed and amused. As part of its efforts to promote the consumption of raki, it appears the company – along with an outfit called the Tourism Research Association (TURAD) – has ... continue -
And the Winner Is….
2 responses - Posted 05.03.12
We are very proud to announce that we have been voted "Best Culinary Travel Blog" in Saveur Magazine's third annual Best Food Blog Awards competition. The competition was stiff and we were honored just to be included among that group of six finalists. A victory by any one of us would have been a victory for good taste. Thank you ... continue -
Vahap Usta: The Man Who Would Be (Kokoreç) King, Pt. I
1 response - Posted 05.01.12
Vahap Usta pulled a pair of reading glasses from the inside pocket of a snug dinner jacket and sifted through a stack of newspaper clippings. Here was a full spread from a major daily paper proclaiming him the “King of Kokoreç” and another with him in his signature tuxedo and bowtie in front of his stand in the central Sirkeci ... continue -
Island — and Table — Hopping in Istanbul
1 response - Posted 04.25.12
Istanbul's Princes' Islands, a lovely archipelago just off the city's Asian shore, offer what we believe to be the best travel bargain anywhere in the world. Whenever we're in need of a vacation but can't afford the airfare, a ferry awaits to take us to the islands. For the price of just a few liras, we're transported to a small ... continue -
Beyoglu Burger Wars: Counter Offensive
8 responses - Posted 04.23.12
Six months ago we were very concerned to see one of our favorite burger joints, Mano Burger, closed down. The workers gutting the place told us there was financial trouble. Someone else said they’d opened up shop on the Asian side, in Bostanci. For six months, Mano seemed to go incognito. We were then equally puzzled a couple of weeks ago ... continue -
Hamsi for Hipsters!
no responses - Posted 04.18.12
Turns out New Yorkers are only now discovering what Turks have known for eons: that the humble anchovy is absolutely delicious (particularly when lightly coated in flour or cornmeal and fried). As an article in today's New York Times explains, anchovies -- known as "hamsi" in Turkish -- are being served in a growing number of spots in NYC, from ... continue -
Goreme Muhallebicisi: The Milkman Stayeth
3 responses - Posted 04.13.12
In the world of chicken breast pudding (a traditional Turkish dessert made with thickened milk and thin strands of poached poultry), elasticity is the quality that the confection is judged upon above all else. Tucking into a real tavuk göğsü requires full concentration, a good bit of dexterity and the proper tool. A special spoon with a flat chopping nose ... continue
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Five Favorite Old-School Meyhanes
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All entries filed under this archive
Since You Asked: Cruising to Dinner?
4 responses - Posted 01.28.11
(Editor’s Note: This post is part of our occasional “Since You Asked…” advice column. We welcome our readers’ questions, so feel free to send any you might have to istanbuleats@gmail.com) Dear Istanbul Eats: The Asian side’s Korfez was always my very special night out when friends came to town, especially since ...continue
4 responses - Posted 01.28.11
(Editor’s Note: This post is part of our occasional “Since You Asked…” advice column. We welcome our readers’ questions, so feel free to send any you might have to istanbuleats@gmail.com) Dear Istanbul Eats: The Asian side’s Korfez was always my very special night out when friends came to town, especially since ...continue
NATO Lokantasi: The Lunchtime Alliance
3 responses - Posted 01.24.11
Turkish politics make for a great lunch counter conversation. These days, one of the hot topics is a perceived axis shift, as if Ankara, feeling burned by the West, has turned the gaze of the Republic eastward, as easily as a donerci reverses the rotation of his spit. But down ...continue
3 responses - Posted 01.24.11
Turkish politics make for a great lunch counter conversation. These days, one of the hot topics is a perceived axis shift, as if Ankara, feeling burned by the West, has turned the gaze of the Republic eastward, as easily as a donerci reverses the rotation of his spit. But down ...continue
Istanbul Eats Cooks: Zubeyir’s Eggplant Smokeout
7 responses - Posted 01.21.11
(Editor’s Note: As much as we love eating out, sometimes nothing can beat a home-cooked meal. But recently we started thinking about killing two birds with one stone and learning how to make at home dishes from some of our favorite Istanbul restaurants. With that in mind, we are happy ...continue
7 responses - Posted 01.21.11
(Editor’s Note: As much as we love eating out, sometimes nothing can beat a home-cooked meal. But recently we started thinking about killing two birds with one stone and learning how to make at home dishes from some of our favorite Istanbul restaurants. With that in mind, we are happy ...continue
Istanbul Eats in The Atlantic
1 response - Posted 01.20.11
Elizabeth Helman Minchilli, a writer for The Atlantic magazine's online food blog, recently went on one of our culinary walks and wrote a glowing review of her experience. From her recent blog post: I don't usually sign up for tours of any kind; I always think I can figure things out on ...continue
1 response - Posted 01.20.11
Elizabeth Helman Minchilli, a writer for The Atlantic magazine's online food blog, recently went on one of our culinary walks and wrote a glowing review of her experience. From her recent blog post: I don't usually sign up for tours of any kind; I always think I can figure things out on ...continue
Lost in Thrace: Following the Tekirdağ Köftesi Trail
2 responses - Posted 01.17.11
(Editor’s Note: This week, Istanbul Eats hops on the bus and heads west to sample the Thrace region’s most famous köfte in its native environment. Guest writers Sherri Cohen and Alex Hallowell, Fulbright English Teaching Assistants at Namık Kemal University in Tekirdağ, have run the gust-busting gauntlet to bring you ...continue
2 responses - Posted 01.17.11
(Editor’s Note: This week, Istanbul Eats hops on the bus and heads west to sample the Thrace region’s most famous köfte in its native environment. Guest writers Sherri Cohen and Alex Hallowell, Fulbright English Teaching Assistants at Namık Kemal University in Tekirdağ, have run the gust-busting gauntlet to bring you ...continue
Köfteci Arnavut: On the Good Ship Meatball Shop
no responses - Posted 01.14.11
Perhaps it’s the proximity of the waters of the Golden Horn or the weathered wood interior, but we get a distinctly maritime feeling at Köfteci Arnavut, a tiny köfte joint in the historic Balat neighborhood. The members of the Iştay family, who opened the place in 1947, seem to think the ...continue
no responses - Posted 01.14.11
Perhaps it’s the proximity of the waters of the Golden Horn or the weathered wood interior, but we get a distinctly maritime feeling at Köfteci Arnavut, a tiny köfte joint in the historic Balat neighborhood. The members of the Iştay family, who opened the place in 1947, seem to think the ...continue
The Hamsi Chase
no responses - Posted 01.12.11
The intrepid folks behind the fantastic "Eating Asia" blog were recently in Turkey in search of hamsi in all its various guises. While they tried the little anchovy in some worthy Istanbul spots (including at some Istanbul Eats favorites), they decided to go to the Black Sea coast and try ...continue
no responses - Posted 01.12.11
The intrepid folks behind the fantastic "Eating Asia" blog were recently in Turkey in search of hamsi in all its various guises. While they tried the little anchovy in some worthy Istanbul spots (including at some Istanbul Eats favorites), they decided to go to the Black Sea coast and try ...continue
Hayvore: Lost and Found
7 responses - Posted 01.10.11
In the Laz language, “si sore” means, “where are you?” At least twice a week for past few years, our answer to that question at lunchtime would be, “We are at Pera Sisore.” This little restaurant in the Asmalimescit area became one of our go-to lunch spots by serving some ...continue
7 responses - Posted 01.10.11
In the Laz language, “si sore” means, “where are you?” At least twice a week for past few years, our answer to that question at lunchtime would be, “We are at Pera Sisore.” This little restaurant in the Asmalimescit area became one of our go-to lunch spots by serving some ...continue
Kiva Han: Imposter or Contender?
8 responses - Posted 01.07.11
Imitation may be the sincerest form of flattery, but when Galata’s Kiva Han first opened its doors a few years ago it felt like the restaurant was taking things a bit too far. The inspiration for the slightly upscale spot, located a stone’s throw from the Galata Tower, was obviously ...continue
8 responses - Posted 01.07.11
Imitation may be the sincerest form of flattery, but when Galata’s Kiva Han first opened its doors a few years ago it felt like the restaurant was taking things a bit too far. The inspiration for the slightly upscale spot, located a stone’s throw from the Galata Tower, was obviously ...continue
Istanbul’s Disappearing Fish
2 responses - Posted 01.06.11
The Wall Street Journal has come out with a sobering article that takes a look at the dwindling fish supply in the Bosphorus, where tuna and large mackerel used to make annual runs but have not been seen in the heavily-fished strait since the 1960's. This year, it appears that ...continue
2 responses - Posted 01.06.11
The Wall Street Journal has come out with a sobering article that takes a look at the dwindling fish supply in the Bosphorus, where tuna and large mackerel used to make annual runs but have not been seen in the heavily-fished strait since the 1960's. This year, it appears that ...continue
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