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Archive for July, 2009

Jul 31

Melengeç : Mean Greens

Filed under Reviews (Eats)

They might as well have named Melengeç the “Solar Eclipse” or the “Dodo Bird,” because, in the handful of meals we’ve had at this cozy Arnavutköy restaurant, its namesake dish, melengeç, made from the green leaves of a tree from the Aegean shores, has not once made an appearance at the table.

Luckily, there was no shortage of competent substitutes. On a recent visit we sampled no fewer than four different and unusual greens, all remarkably different. In a country where even an innocent-looking plate of rice usually conceals some form of meat, Melengeç’s wide variety of purely vegetarian offerings is a pleasant change of pace. Complemented by laid-back service in a tastefully decorated old wooden home, Melengeç sets the stage for a fine evening on the Bosphorus. Continue…

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All entries filed under this archive

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6 responses - Posted 07.27.09
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8 responses - Posted 07.24.09
Sometimes billed as “that Armenian-Jewish restaurant in Beyoğlu,” Mekan harkens back to the neighborhood’s cosmopolitan past, when it was home to a large non-Muslim population. The food is sometimes Sephardic and Armenian, sometimes Turkish. But the important point here is the place’s authenticity. Mekan is not trying to be anything ...continue
Cooking Classes at the Istanbul Culinary Institute
no responses - Posted 07.23.09
The New York Times' Globespotters blog recently ran a post (written by Istanbul Eats' Yigal Schleifer) about cooking classes for amateurs at the Istanbul Culinary Institute. Located in the heart of Istanbul's Pera neighborhood, the ICI also has a very pleasant restaurant/café that features the cooking of the institute's advanced-level ...continue
Istanbul Street (Food) Photography
3 responses - Posted 07.22.09
A street vendor in Istanbul's Galata neighborhood selling freshly peeled cucumbers and carrots. Photo by Jonathan Lewis continue
“Taste Routes” of Turkey
no responses - Posted 07.20.09
The English-language Today's Zaman newspaper has an article in today's edition that points travelers to culinary pit stops throughout Turkey. The suggestions are taken from a book called Lezzet Durakları (literally, "Taste Stops" in Turkish), sadly not available in English. The article has what seem like some very good suggestions ...continue
Altan Şekerleme: More than Just Eye Candy
1 response - Posted 07.17.09
Just up the Golden Horn from the Egyptian Spice Bazaar is Küçük Pazarı – a rarely explored warren of market streets and Ottoman-era caravanserais that are home to scissor sharpeners, saddle shops, vendors selling axle grease (by the vat) and purveyors of axes. From this potpourri of run-down, yet extremely ...continue
The Grand Bazaar: Come for the Shopping, Stay for the Food
12 responses - Posted 07.15.09
We like to think of Istanbul’s Grand Bazaar – open since 1461 – as the world’s oldest shopping mall. If that’s the case, shouldn’t the Grand Bazaar be home to the world’s oldest food court? That may be taking the analogy too far, but for us, the Grand Bazaar can ...continue
Adem Baba: Soleman
5 responses - Posted 07.10.09
It must have taken an entire fleet's worth of nets, harpoons, anchors, life preservers and buoys to decorate the dining rooms of Adem Baba. The decorations makes sense: the restaurant got its start as humble, boat-borne kitchen floating dockside in the Bosphorus neighborhood of Arnavutköy, although now it has transformed ...continue
Istanbul Street (Food) Photography
no responses - Posted 07.08.09
A young woman working in one of Istanbul's numerous dried fruit and nut shops. Photo by Jonathan Lewis continue
Istanbul Street (Food) Photography
3 responses - Posted 07.01.09
A vendor selling balık ekmek (fish sandwiches) from a cart in Istanbul's Eminönü neighborhood. By Nicki Sobecki continue

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